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Get Spanked 

YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 25'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11 French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- British: E4 5c [details]
FA: July 2012, Mark Pell/Keith Reed
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 34
Submitted By: Mark Pell on Jan 31, 2013
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Description 

Start about 8' right of Spoonlicker and climb the 30-degree overhanging wall past four bolts to a chained belay at the breakover. The crux is an intricate pocket and edge sequence above a small roof at bolt 3 that sets you up for either an extreme reach (for tall, skinny types) or a dyno to a very positive jug on a horizontal rail. Match, work your feet up above the roof, and hang on to make another reach to a higher rail and bolt 4. The chains are reached after one more move that's easier unless you're gassed by now. If you're not, try the last 'bonus' move past the anchors- another dyno to the small but positive point hold visible on the breakover next to the bolts, on the left.


Protection 

4 protection bolts, two-bolt belay with chains for toproping/lowering.



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