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Geshidos for trad?
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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 7, 2013

I have yet to find the Geshidos in my size (13-14) to actually try on, but they sound like evolvs version of the miura which I think is a great trad shoe, but they don't come big enough for multi-pitch climbing unless I pull em off at every belay.

Anyone been able to compare the two shoes?


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By T.J. Esposito
From San Diego, CA
Feb 7, 2013
Espresso @ New Jack City

Fell my way up Cloud Tower in RR wearing them (velcro versions; unlike the Miura, the lace and velcro Geshidos are supposedly the same last).

Very comfortable, I wear my street shoe size and they're pretty neat, slight downturn shape that bends flat easily though, versatile for sport and trad. Also, the toe comes to a pretty slim point so they fit into finger-size cracks more easily than the TC Pro.


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By rging
From Salt Lake City, Ut
Feb 7, 2013
CoR

For boating or climbing?


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By T.J. Esposito
From San Diego, CA
Feb 8, 2013
Espresso @ New Jack City

Got the latest Climbing in the mail yesterday, there are at least three pics with people climbing trad or mixed climbs in Geshidos, starting with Steph Davis on the cover.


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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 8, 2013

TJ: how do you suggest sizing for multipitch trad? Street size, +/-???


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By Rob Lilley
From Greensboro, NC
Feb 9, 2013
Bouldering at Stanage Edge, England.

There's a good review of the Geshido's over on UKC which is worth a read to compare the lace vs velcro, here: www.ukclimbing.com/gear/review.php?id=5021


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Feb 9, 2013
El Chorro

What is the difference between a trad shoe and a sport shoe? I thought the type of shoes you wear depended on the kind of rock you're climbing, not how it's protected.


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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 9, 2013

When I think of 'trad' I think of at least a few hundred feet of climbing, preferably on splitter cracks that require a lot of jamming. Therefore I want a shoe that is comfortable without being baggy or sloppy. For sport I like a tighter fit, but I don't want my toes curled if I have them in the crack.


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Feb 9, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Do you not have a shop near you where you can try some on? You ask a lot of basic questions that seem like they could be easily answered with a visit to a shop. Besides, asking someone else about how they size shoes, and how shoes fit, on their feet which are almost guaranteed to be different from yours is futile. Ryan's right. The type of rock should dictate. Single pitch steep with small holds- performance fit/design. If you're doing chiefly crack climbing, you'll want something with a low profile that will fit and cam into a crack well. A stiff sole and a "flat toes" fit also help. For slab, you'll want something that smears well with the most amount of sole contact, and also something that will hold on small crystals. For all day multipitch, you want something that will perform, but is comfortable for long periods. Rubber is largely a matter of opinion, C4, Evolv, XS, etc. - people simultaneously swear by and denounce the same brands of rubber constantly for a myriad of reasons. Other than these basic things, you'll answer all your questions by trying shoes on. How they fit other peoples' feet doesn't matter.


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By Salamanizer
Administrator
From Vacaville Ca.
Feb 9, 2013

Just wore out the pair I had. I only bought them because they were on sale for 50 bucks at Sports Chalet and needed something cheap for the gym. Turned out to be a pretty quality edger with a decent amount of stiffness to support your toes. My toes are fukked from years of hand drilling bolts while standing on dime edges so that support was much appreciated.
I like them better than the TC pros for cracks. Hand sized cracks and offwidths, no! TC's all the way, but for thin offhand, finger and thin edgy stuff they blow the TC's away. They seem to be a wider shoe than some so if you got narrow feet like I don't, then you might want to pay attention to that when trying them on.

The store didn't have my normal size, 10 to 10.5 but I tried on a size 9 anyway and they fit like a glove. Waz up wid that??? I'd try them on before buying.

I like the 5.10 Galileo's better for hard thin cracks, slab, edging, pretty much everything but they are narrower and not as supportive on my midget digits. If your toes aren't a problem and you got mid to narrow feet, try the Galileo's. The rubber is way better, lasts way longer and the toes are narrower for thin seams.

Evolv makes a similar shoe that's a lace-up or is just a lace-up version of the Geshido, don't remember or care enough to try but it looks similar and lace-up for trad is definitely the way to go.

If you can't find a shoe in your size, contact the company directly. I'm sure they will send a pair for you to try on, maybe even a couple and more than likely pay for the return shipping if they don't.


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By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From London (sort of)
Feb 9, 2013
El Chorro

sweagan wrote:
When I think of 'trad' I think of at least a few hundred feet of climbing, preferably on splitter cracks that require a lot of jamming. Therefore I want a shoe that is comfortable without being baggy or sloppy. For sport I like a tighter fit, but I don't want my toes curled if I have them in the crack.


But you live in Bishop. When I trad climb in the UK it rarely means splitter cracks. More like a lot of smearing and slopers, or a lot of crimps, pinches and techy face climbing. Can be anywhere from 50 to 300 feet.

While I agree with you about what you look for in shoes, you aren't really talking about trad versus sport. What you are talking about is single pitch versus multipitch, crack versus face, and different degrees of steepness. Those are the factors that determine what shoe you wear, not how you protect the route.


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By T.J. Esposito
From San Diego, CA
Feb 11, 2013
Espresso @ New Jack City

Everyone needs to post pics of their feet when posting about shoes. Then we know what we're dealing with. Would be a pretty fugly thread though...


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By climbnplay
Feb 12, 2013

geishidos (laces) are excellent trad shoes imo. low profile, excellent all-around performance, great sensitivity...if they fit your feet, that is.


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By Jake Jones
From Richmond, VA
Feb 12, 2013
Me and the offspring walking back to the car after a day of cragging.

Salamanizer wrote:
If you can't find a shoe in your size, contact the company directly. I'm sure they will send a pair for you to try on, maybe even a couple and more than likely pay for the return shipping if they don't.


I'm not calling bullshit outright, but I have a hard time believing this.


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By GhaMby
From Heaven
Feb 12, 2013

YO!

Part of why I'm asking is because I'm looking for something similar to the Miuras that hopefully fits a size bigger than the largest that they make (46), the other part is that the geshidos are on sale all over the interwebs in a size 13.5. I'm trying to find out if I can expect them to fit my foot tight at that size. From what I'm hearing it apears as though all of you have very varying opinions on how they fit.


Also I have a pair of Five Ten Galileos and I do not think the fit is narrow, I also don't think they fit into thin cracks well, but both of these issues are likely due to me wearing a size 13 where climbing shoe mfrs. start screwing up the toe box of shoes! I do love my galileos on vertical-techy routes, nothing edges as well while still being comfortable!

Maybe I'll start shooting pics of my feet in various situations so that TJ can start a blog on climbers feet, maybe a stone-feet calendar???


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By Salamanizer
Administrator
From Vacaville Ca.
Feb 14, 2013

Jake Jones wrote:
I'm not calling bullshit outright, but I have a hard time believing this.



Well, you gotta pay for them first. Then they'll more than likely pay for shipping if you need to go up or down a size.

I bought a pair of shoes from Acopa a while back. Was looking for a 10 maybe 10.5. I paid for a pair and they sent two with a pre-paid box to ship back which ever pair didn't fit. Who knows if Evolve will do the same as Acopas customer service was legendary.

But I'd suspect if Evolve had any customer service qualities at all they would at least ship you out a pair you paid for and cover all shipping costs should the pair not fit and you needed to do an exchange. Especially for a somewhat hard to find borderline custom size clown shoe like dude needs.

Try calling them, I bet you're taken care of in under 5 minutes.


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