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S-Curve - Upper Wall
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Geronimo 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian, Jonathon, and Vicki Smoot 1990
Page Views: 2,199
Submitted By: Nathan Fisher on Jun 8, 2003

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (59)
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Start of the climb

Description 

This is the furthest east climb on the upper wall. Steep and juggy, but not a hard climb. There is a climb above it (5.11b).


Protection 

2 bolts for the anchors, and 5 draws for the climb.



Photos of Geronimo Slideshow Add Photo
Geronimo on the right and Clean  underwear on the left.
Geronimo on the right and Clean underwear on the ...
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By Lee Gitlin
May 13, 2004
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

After clipping the anchors, the rope will want to find a slot in the top roof. This makes for mucho rope friction if your second prefers to toprope.

By KCP
From: Eldorado Springs, CO
Jul 12, 2005
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

This route is really fun for the grade. Most sport routes in this grade range usually seem like afterthoughts. Does anyone know why the moderate to the left is so sparsely bolted?

By Boissal
From: Small Lake, UT
Sep 8, 2006

Fun ! Can be run in one pitch with the upper part (11b I believe), although rope drag can be a problem. Watch for the slot that Lee mentioned, you can feel it eating through your rope when you lower.

By Michael Buchanan
Apr 20, 2010
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun. Big jugs, cool bulges. Just when you thinks you should have a bolt, BAM there is one.

By DCrane
From: Taylorsville, Utah
Apr 22, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

If you plan to have someone toprope, you can extend the anchors with cordelettes - I used two 20-foot cords, each tied to make a 10 foot loop, and this got to just above the ledge, used some runners to extend a bit more - careful of that lip on your cords/runners though, a bag or shirt keeps them from getting sawed in half.
Extending is crucial here and with the route to the left to keep your rope from wearing on that lip. Otherwise, I would avoid toproping here.

By Garret Nuzzo-Jones
From: Salt Lake City, UT
Dec 20, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Great bolting, not too long, not too short. You get a lot of value for this climb.

By Mark Alston
Mar 17, 2013
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13

A small piece of rope has been left in one of the slots that your rope would otherwise try to slip into. I last climbed this is '94. Still a good route. Easy to accidentally track off route to the right on TR.

By Bonneville
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Apr 14, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Just climbed this Saturday, April 12th, 2014. The last link on each of the chains is looking super sketchy. They're pretty worn out and need to be replaced. I personally don't have experience bolting or replacing hardware. If anyone out here in the SLC area is willing, I'd be down to contribute some cash and personal time to help make this happen. If so, contact me yo! Cheers!

By zoso
Apr 14, 2014

That's refreshing. Thanks for not being a member of the Entitlement Generation.

By Garrett C
From: SL,UT
Apr 19, 2014
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Typical s-curves. Steep, pumpy, fun. As mentioned bottom rings of anchors could use a little lovin..