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 ADVANCED
The Old Woman - East Face
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Geronimo 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b [details]
FA: Phil Haney, John Mokri and Bob Dominick, November 1970
Page Views: 5,474
Submitted By: Orphaned on Jun 20, 2002

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (63)
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Description 

I'm sure there are many ways to get to this route. I have never approached it from the east side, but I know you can get to a set of anchors just below the top on the east side by downclimbing a short chute off the top of the Old Woman. From those anchors, traverse across right to the base of the crack splitting the overhanging roof. Get the #4 in the bottom of the crack, kneebar, schooch up, get some more pro, and you can make a loooong reach up and inside to the inside edge at the top. Then move out and do some serious jungle-gym moves (caution: burly) to get up and over the top of the crack. Although short, this is a very cool route!!!

Protection 

Take a #4 Camalot for the bottom of the crack. Heck, a #4.5 or #5 might even fit at the very bottom. Stack mostly big cams for this, from #2 on up.


Photos of Geronimo Slideshow Add Photo
Call me a wimp, but I really don't get how people routinely free-solo this.
Call me a wimp, but I really don't get how people ...
another perspective
another perspective
Sketchy Sam pulling over the roof in Geronimo
Sketchy Sam pulling over the roof in Geronimo
The Old Woman - East Face
BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - East Face
Geronimo bat hang
Geronimo bat hang
A different perspective of the Geronimo roof
A different perspective of the Geronimo roof
Tony Moser on Geronimo
Tony Moser on Geronimo

Comments on Geronimo Add Comment
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2002

Back when I started climbing at JTree (25 years ago!) this route was considered a direct finish to the route "Deviate". Deviate used to be rated 5.9 back then, but I think now it is a bit harder, which is why it is now seldom used as the approach to this route.
By Steven Powers
Sep 25, 2002

tis is an amazing fun route, dont forget to yell geranimo when your feet cut loose.
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 21, 2002

Steelmnky - I think I remember the same guy...short shorts, long hair. He seemed to have a regimen of soloing the in the morning...funny. He'd go up Dogleg or Double-Cross, then climb over to this roof. Then he'd traipse around to the other HV moderates, making sure to attract as much attention as possible.

Thanks for brining back those memories from the early 90's!
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 1, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Notable for it's airy position and little else. Were this on the ground it wouldn't be as memorable. Two stars out of five.
By Gary Kleiger
Feb 2, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Chris,

I respectfully disagree. If this route were on the ground, it would be a boulder problem, and a popular one at that.
By mmurduff
Oct 30, 2005
rating: 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Incredibly fun, terribly short. We approached from the anchors of Double Cross: walked up a ramp to a crack went up to the summit and then dropped in next to Geronimo.Belay at two bolts (nice!) Medium to large gear for the leader and enjoy! When you pull the lip, yell: GERONIMO
By Brian Chastain
Apr 13, 2014

This was fun because we hit it after climbing Deviate (must climb and best approach for Geronimo IMO. I certainly wouldn't go really out of your way to do it unless you taking pics or something. Too short for the trouble alone.