Geronimo 5.7
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| Type: | Trad, 1 pitch, 30 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.7+ [details] |
| FA: | Phil Haney, John Mokri and Bob Dominick, November 1970 |
| Submitted By: | Orphaned on Jun 20, 2002 |
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Description I'm sure there are many ways to get to this route. I have never approached it from the east side, but I know you can get to a set of anchors just below the top on the east side by downclimbing a short chute off the top of the Old Woman. From those anchors, traverse across right to the base of the crack splitting the overhanging roof. Get the #4 in the bottom of the crack, kneebar, schooch up, get some more pro, and you can make a loooong reach up and inside to the inside edge at the top. Then move out and do some serious jungle-gym moves (caution: burly) to get up and over the top of the crack. Although short, this is a very cool route!!!
Protection Take a #4 Camalot for the bottom of the crack. Heck, a #4.5 or #5 might even fit at the very bottom. Stack mostly big cams for this, from #2 on up.
BETA PHOTO: The Old Woman - East Face
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Call me a wimp, but I really don't get how people ...
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A different perspective of the Geronimo roof
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Sketchy Sam pulling over the roof in Geronimo
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Geronimo bat hang
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another perspective
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Tony Moser on Geronimo
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By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 27, 2002
| Back when I started climbing at JTree (25 years ago!) this route was considered a direct finish to the route "Deviate". Deviate used to be rated 5.9 back then, but I think now it is a bit harder, which is why it is now seldom used as the approach to this route. |
By Steven Powers
Sep 25, 2002
| tis is an amazing fun route, dont forget to yell geranimo when your feet cut loose. |
By Anonymous Coward
Nov 21, 2002
| Steelmnky - I think I remember the same guy...short shorts, long hair. He seemed to have a regimen of soloing the in the morning...funny. He'd go up Dogleg or Double-Cross, then climb over to this roof. Then he'd traipse around to the other HV moderates, making sure to attract as much attention as possible.
Thanks for brining back those memories from the early 90's! |
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 1, 2005
rating: 5.7
| Notable for it's airy position and little else. Were this on the ground it wouldn't be as memorable. Two stars out of five. |
By Gary Kleiger
Feb 2, 2005
rating: 5.7
| Chris,
I respectfully disagree. If this route were on the ground, it would be a boulder problem, and a popular one at that. |
By mmurduff
Oct 30, 2005
rating: 5.7+
| Incredibly fun, terribly short. We approached from the anchors of Double Cross: walked up a ramp to a crack went up to the summit and then dropped in next to Geronimo.Belay at two bolts (nice!) Medium to large gear for the leader and enjoy! When you pull the lip, yell: GERONIMO |
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