Located in the northern half of a magical place called Euroland. Friendly locals (who likely speak a good amount of English) are usually more than willing to help you figure out where you're going or which route is which. Most routes have UIAA grades (exception: a few areas in the eastern half).
There's also plenty of climbing history in Germany. Harder free climbing got its impetus in the 1970's from a man by the name of Kurt Albert, who invented the redpoint at the Frankenjura area. Also, if you're super-badass and looking for a decent 5.14+, check out 'Action Direct' put up by Wolfgang Güllich.
Please respect local ethics. Some areas prohibit chalk and active protection.
Go to Euroland; it's a relatively large country with relatively large amounts of beer.
The approach can be rather long if you start on a different continent.
Here's a handy map with a good overview of major climbing areas (in German): www.dav-felsinfo.de/ajaxdav/
The Frankenjura has a general overview of what the weather is typically like throughout Germany. However, the area around Freiburg (South-west Germany) is the sunniest in all of Germany, whereas it typically rains more in the north and east (Sächsische Schweiz). In general, however, German weather in April and November is pretty crap, though somewhat unpredictable. That means that you may get lucky and have sunshine and warmth, but more than likely it will rain in those two months.
The Germans have a saying for April: "April, April, er weiß nicht was er will." Directly translated, the saying means "April, April, he doesn't know what he wants." You can have sunshine immediately followed by rain/snow, warmth and then a drop in temps, or just solid sunshine for a week followed by solid rain.
November has generally crappier weather than April.
Having said that, you can plan a visit to Germany despite the rain. If it's raining for a week, go to the Frankenjura or further South in Bavaria. You can't climb in Saxony at all unless the rain has ceased for at least 2 days, making this region as difficult to plan as a trip to England, weather-wise. In the Pfalz, you can also climb on the rock no matter what the conditions, just because the sandstone is so much harder than in the Sächsische Schweiz.
1,126 Total Routes
['4 Stars',73],['3 Stars',240],['2 Stars',358],['1 Star',318],['Bomb',20]
Browse More Classics in Germany
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Germany:
Featured Route For Germany
Optimist 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Europe
: ... : Roter Fels 1
Classic route! The climbing doesn't get much better than this. Climb up through the first two bolts (crux) to get to the ledge and shake out. Continue up and left through the undercling roof, then head right and up and keep going straight up to the top. There are a few tricky and reachy parts in between, but just keep cool and use the rests you can find along the way and don't give up....[more] Browse More Classics in International
Latest Regional Forum Messages
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|By Matt Ludwig|
Jun 26, 2009
I am living in the Stuttgart area, I will be able to meet up around the end of July when I return from my vacation so we could meet up in the Frankenjura.
|By Austin Cooner|
Jul 23, 2010
I will be in Germany for 2 years starting this August and would like to get together with some climbers who can show me some awesome stuff in Germany. I will be stationed in Spangdahlem, Rheinland-Pfalz. I will bring all my gear with me, but need someone to show me the local crags. I honestly don't even know where to begin! Thanks!
|By Brian Devine|
Aug 3, 2010
I am in Kaiserslautern area, let me know when you get in, I've only been here for a couple of months, but there is some descent stuff nearby.
Apr 1, 2011
I'm looking for a reliable climbing partner. The only requirements are: good sense of humor, taste for beer, motivation to climb. PM me if you're interested in meeting up sometime.
|By Chris Vredeveld|
From: Stuttgart Germany
Sep 7, 2011
Going to be moving to Stuttgart at the beginning of the year/end of the year. Looking to try and find a partner for either the gym or hopefully out in the real world. Haven't been climbing much lately but have led up to 5.9 in the gym. Would like to give alpine a try at some point to. Leave me a message here if your in the area.
Oct 23, 2012
Just arrived to Germany, will be living here for the next couple of years if anyone in the area of Eschenbach would like to climb send me a message. Id like to get out as much as possible as the months coming will be getting cold I would look to going to Gyms.
From: Bonn, Germany
Aug 17, 2013
I am moving to Bonn this October and would like to climb at Frankenjura on weekends. Anybody interested in partnering up for weekend climbing trips. A group of 3 or 4 would be fine too. I rope and quickdraws and moderate experience. I am a competent belayer and can belay with both gri gri and atc.
|By scoTt Millbern|
From: Langenfeld, Germany
Aug 21, 2013
The Frankenjura is a little far for a day trip for me (I live just north of Cologne), but for a weekend we could work something out.
I plan on a weekend trip to the Pfalz soon as well if you are interested.
The Schwarze Säulen area has some good climbing as well.
Hit me up at email@example.com if you are interested or for more beta on the area.
www.rainorclimb.com also has a map of "some" local crags, mostly more north.
|By Mike McDonough|
From: Sindelfingen, Germany
Oct 20, 2013
hi im mike-mcdonough
i live in baden wuertenburg.
looking for anyone who wants to climb anywhere
rock or ice
just let me know, im also on FB