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a nice climb up cracks to a hard face more that's protected with bolts.
right side of N&C middle of the face with the horizontal crack.
|By Peter Spindloe|
From: North Vancouver, BC
Oct 28, 2007
This climb is on the face that has the drill holes from blasting the trail through. Start at the left side of the face just right of the gap created by a separated block. 5.8 or 5.9 climbing on nuts and finger to hand sized cams takes you to a horizontal break. Above the break, two bolts protect a very thin face. The hardest move is probably the first step above the break, but it stays thin and sustained. At the top is a two-bolt anchor, but no chains or rap gear. To escape, scramble up up left of the anchor and then right up a very short gully. The set of anchors to the left are for Neat and Cool.
|By Mark Roberts|
From: Vancouver, BC
Aug 7, 2010
rating: 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b PG13
Yes, the slab is run out past the second bolt, but the climbing gets consistently easier with each move after the last bolt, from 10c to 5.6.
Being a big 'fraidy cat, I did place a .5 Camelot in the weird half-crack feature up top to protect the the last few moves, so you can do that if you need to but really the moves past that point are all 5.7 and 5.6. If I try the route again for a redpoint I probably won't bother with protection there.
Kind of nice route actually. I only got on it because everything we wanted to get on that day was occupado but it was good fun, especially the slab at the top where it starts to actually become 10c. (The cracks up to the slab don't really break 5.9). Actually, the crux move felt a touch harder than 10c, but it's well protected.
|By John Wilder|
From: Las Vegas, NV
Jul 31, 2013
rating: 5.10c 6b 20 VII E2 5b PG13
a #4 camalot in the first horizontal protects it nicely. hard for the grade, i thought- with big air if you blow the final crux move.