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 ADVANCED
Black Wall (aka Happy Acres)
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
All that, Jazz T,S,TR 
Cram It T 
Geriatric Therapy T 
Greek Tragedy T 
Happy Acres T 
Mom & Apple Pie S 
Mothers of Invention S 
Spontaneous Enjoyment T 
Tres Hombres T,S 
Unknown 5.8+ T 
Unsorted Routes:

Geriatric Therapy 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Mark Limage, Gary Sanders *(see notes)
Page Views: 1,033
Submitted By: David Arthur Sampson on Nov 19, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
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BETA PHOTO: Geriatric Therapy variation, pitch 2

Description 

The crux, I think, was moving over a slight bulge on the second pitch; assuming you do the variation. I can't speak of the Standard (2 pitch) route. Rock quality was marginal, at times, on the first pitch. P2 ascends a small corner, and then trends left onto the face with two bolts to the "bulge". There is a belay station on a small ledge above the bulge.

Location 

Located on the right-hand side of the left face that is Happy Acres (just left of the huge right-facing corner). The standard GT is two pitches to a ledge that intersects with the corner. The variation moves left at the first belay.

Protection 

First pitch is short and bolted. A light rack for the second and (third) up to 2".


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By Bruce Bindner
Nov 27, 2008

Did the original second pitch of Geriatric Therapy with Nurse Ratchet last week.

Some fragile rock, its a good exercise in routefinding and finding good protection. 5.7. A 30m rap can return you to the P1 belay, whence you can do the variation (which we did.)

Note that there are bolts but no rap anchors at the top of the third pitch (on the variation) so walking off is the best option. A rappel would have serious rope-snag potential anyway. Good views down onto the First and Second Pullouts from the walk off.
By danny rider
Jan 13, 2009

I did this route with Randy Grandstaff in 1987 and there were no bolts on route or for belays. We did the route in 2 and a half pitches using gear for anchors. We walked off. This has always been the "Black Wall" and there may be other ascents not noted by Sal, Paul and Nick.