Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Punani Boulder
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Dry Spell 
Gerbil in a Chute 
Pleasure By Ambush 
Unsorted Routes:

Gerbil in a Chute 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+ [details]
FA: Tom Hanson, mid '80s
Page Views: 1,799
Submitted By: cstorms on Mar 14, 2008

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (6)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Chris in the beginning of Gerbil in a Chute.

Seasonal Raptor Closures MORE INFO >>>


Climb up the dihedral: Start by reaching up to a decent, sharp sidepull with your left hand, right hand on a cobble...step up however you can onto the obvious good foothold at about waist height...get both feet up into the technical climbing in the chute and a fun little jump move to the lip. It is aptly named.


This is on the Punani Boulder (see directions) and directly to the right of Punani.


Perfect landing, a pad and a spotter for the topout is nice.

Photos of Gerbil in a Chute Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: "The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva.
"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva.
Rock Climbing Photo: "The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva 2.
"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva 2.
Rock Climbing Photo: Setting up for the lip on Gerbil. Beautiful Winter...
Setting up for the lip on Gerbil. Beautiful Winter...
Rock Climbing Photo: Hitting the lip. Match after this and then finish ...
Hitting the lip. Match after this and then finish ...

Comments on Gerbil in a Chute Add Comment
Show which comments
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jan 12, 2009

Does anyone know anything about the problem directly right of this one with a huge move from the large hueco to a pocket up left and a crimp next to it, then to the lip???
By Tom Hanson
Jan 13, 2009

Right hand variant to Gerbils?
I do recall a hideous top out mantle.
By j.jaeger
Feb 24, 2009

Re: above... I've been slacking on the "Castlewood bouldering blog" I started, but I suppose I'll start to just enter stuff here....

Right of Gerbil about 6 feet is a sinker pocket at about chest height. Start here, pull on, and make a huge move back left to a sidepull pocket on an arete feature. Then, a crimpy pocket rightward on the face, and a huge huck to the horrid lip. This was a Marcelo Montalva project for about a year and he finished it recently, early February 2009, dubbing it "The Mangler".

Aside from the dyno, the span on the first move, as described, is prohibitive for the short. I suspect that it can be done by letting go of the starting hold and somehow catching your swing with some clever dynamic foot dancing.... In any event, I suspect that shorties with dyno skills will prefer to start as for Gerbil in a chute and just cut right at the arete pocket to skip the lurch move and keep the cool power huck of doom.

I posted a couple photos of Celo's heartbreaking robbery last spring....
By j.jaeger
May 21, 2009

Around the right arete from Gerbils is a crouching or sit start problem.... It starts on two positive holds low. Power up to left hand sloping edge, then toss or hook your way to a mega jug before loose and juggy finish. I was told V7 and I suppose it could be. Anyone have a name for this one? It's certainly not classic, but worth doing when at the block.

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!