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Gerbil in a Chute 

Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+

   
Type:  Boulder
Consensus:  Hueco: V3-4 Font: 6A+ [details]
FA: Tom Hanson, mid '80s
Page Views: 1,607
Submitted By: cstorms on Mar 14, 2008

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Chris in the beginning of Gerbil in a Chute.

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Description 

Climb up the dihedral: Start by reaching up to a decent, sharp sidepull with your left hand, right hand on a cobble...step up however you can onto the obvious good foothold at about waist height...get both feet up into the dihedral...fun technical climbing in the chute and a fun little jump move to the lip. It is aptly named.

Location 

This is on the Punani Boulder (see directions) and directly to the right of Punani.

Protection 

Perfect landing, a pad and a spotter for the topout is nice.


Photos of Gerbil in a Chute Slideshow Add Photo
"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva.
"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva.
"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva 2.
"The Mangler" - Marcelo Montalva 2.
Setting up for the lip on Gerbil. Beautiful Winter...
Setting up for the lip on Gerbil. Beautiful Winter...
Hitting the lip. Match after this and then finish ...
Hitting the lip. Match after this and then finish ...

Comments on Gerbil in a Chute Add Comment
Show which comments
By half-pad-mini-jug
From: crauschville
Jan 12, 2009

Does anyone know anything about the problem directly right of this one with a huge move from the large hueco to a pocket up left and a crimp next to it, then to the lip???
By Tom Hanson
Jan 13, 2009

Right hand variant to Gerbils?
I do recall a hideous top out mantle.
By j.jaeger
Feb 24, 2009

Re: above... I've been slacking on the "Castlewood bouldering blog" I started, but I suppose I'll start to just enter stuff here....

Right of Gerbil about 6 feet is a sinker pocket at about chest height. Start here, pull on, and make a huge move back left to a sidepull pocket on an arete feature. Then, a crimpy pocket rightward on the face, and a huge huck to the horrid lip. This was a Marcelo Montalva project for about a year and he finished it recently, early February 2009, dubbing it "The Mangler".

Aside from the dyno, the span on the first move, as described, is prohibitive for the short. I suspect that it can be done by letting go of the starting hold and somehow catching your swing with some clever dynamic foot dancing.... In any event, I suspect that shorties with dyno skills will prefer to start as for Gerbil in a chute and just cut right at the arete pocket to skip the lurch move and keep the cool power huck of doom.

I posted a couple photos of Celo's heartbreaking robbery last spring....
By j.jaeger
May 21, 2009

Around the right arete from Gerbils is a crouching or sit start problem.... It starts on two positive holds low. Power up to left hand sloping edge, then toss or hook your way to a mega jug before loose and juggy finish. I was told V7 and I suppose it could be. Anyone have a name for this one? It's certainly not classic, but worth doing when at the block.