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Mescaline Daydream 

5.8

   
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FA: unknown
Type: Trad
Consensus: 5.8 [details]
Length: 2 pitches, 200 feet
Views: 1,579 page views

Submitted By: saxfiend on Dec 15, 2006


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Gary Latimer extends his placement before making t...


Description 

An outstanding route, probably the finest for the grade at Tallulah. It's well protected with some interesting roof moves on great rock. Don't miss Mescaline Daydream!

P1 - Starting under a small roof, move up and left of the roof into a short squeeze chimney that ends under a huge roof. Undercling the roof out left and escape up using a corner at the left end of the roof. Move up the corner to a spacious ledge and belay. 80'
P2 - Climb to an alcove, then move up and right pulling a small roof (crux). Continue up by laybacking and stemming a gorgeous right-facing corner to the top. 120'


Location 

Starts after the trail switchback, but before getting to Digital Delight; just left of Flying Frog. From the bolted anchor, rap on two ropes down the face alongside Flying Frog.


Protection 

Plentiful placements for small to medium pro; sling well to avoid rope drag. Gear anchor at the belay; bolted anchors at the top. Double ropes are recommended; otherwise, trail a second rope for the rap down.



Photos of Mescaline Daydream Slideshow Add Photo
P2 of Mescaline Daydream. Photo by Denmark.

P2 of Mescaline Daydream. Photo by Denmark.

Seconding the excellent P2 of Mescaline Daydream. Photo by Scott Perkins.

Seconding the excellent P2 of Mescaline Daydream. ...

Top of the second pitch. I think this is one of the best routes at the gorge. You can either climb up to the cave directly above the chains and then scurry up to the top of the chimney to the trail or do a rap to the bottom from the chains. (2 ropes) FOR THIS.

Top of the second pitch. I think this is one of t...

a view from the cave. dave coiling ropes

a view from the cave. dave coiling ropes

Layback on 2nd pitch. Led the route then had to rap and do it again after my partner couldn't remove a stuck piece.

Layback on 2nd pitch. Led the route then had to ra...

'Chimney' start

'Chimney' start

Cave entrance to happier hunting grounds at the top. Definitely a must see.

Cave entrance to happier hunting grounds at the to...


Comments on Mescaline Daydream Add Comment
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By Joey Wolfe
Jan 8, 2007

Great climb, can't wait to do it again! Above chains is a cave that Native Americans believed was the entrance to the "Happy Hunting Ground". Pretty cool. Also, "huge" roof is more intimidating then it is hard.

By Will S
Mar 29, 2007

The roof at the ground is thin in the back, but will take gear. It's balancy but not hard. Pulling it is easy on huge jugs. Maybe the best trad route of it's grade in GA.

By BirminghamBen
From: Birmingham, AL
Mar 29, 2007

Agree on the roof. Walk through the cave at the top...some bouldering and bushwahcking puts you back at the Wilenda(sp.) tower.

By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Atlanta, GA
Dec 2, 2007

I finally got around to leading MD recently two years after having seconded it, and I'd forgotten how spicy the start is. The roof traverse is definitely not the crux on P1, but it is a lot of fun and well protected too. Really an inspiring route, not to be missed.

By Paul Barnes
From: Gainesville, Georgia
Sep 20, 2008

Leading the chimney start was harder than the roof traverse for me, but I HATE chimneys. Stick TCU's in the upside down fingerlocks on the roof traverse then slide 'em sideways (keyhole 'em) and they're great. Red Metolius out near the lip and you're good to go.

By Kit Taylor
From: Atlanta, GA
Oct 5, 2009

Good route, roof is a bit mental but rest is very fun. Be sure to get up to the cave, you don't really even need to rope up, its just a stroll up from the top.