By BirminghamBen From: Birmingham, AL Jun 7, 2009 rating: 5.10 PG13
| This is a serious undertaking to lead. The moves are all there, if long and a bit thin. To quote the FA: "Well, you're gonna work up to that flake there, and, um, kind of get all over it." Precisely...crimp up to the horizontal, load it with gear, do some more delicate face to the flake, sling it with a 48" runner (preferably), fire the crux, gaining the flake as a foothold, dink in a tricam and/or micronut, and fire more delicate face and a fingerlock in a pod to the upper slopiness...lastly, a shared #1 Camalot with RotJ will ease your rattled mind. Prior to that, the gear, leaves a bit to be desired.
...Yeah, you won't want to leave the dish flake at about half height.
Quite the route. Kudos to Jody and M.C. for paving the way for such a self-actualizing experience. |