Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Main Face
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Kid Fears Direct Start S 
Afternoon Delight T,S 
Balance Climb 7 T 
Balance Climb 1 T,TR 
Balance Climb 2 T 
Balance Climb 3 T,TR 
Balance Climb 4 T 
Balance Climb 5 T,TR 
Balance Climb 6 T,TR 
Balance Climb 8 T,TR 
Balance Climb 9 T 
Cavemen Eat Quiche T 
Dihedral T 
Edges to Ledges T 
Fat Bitches in the Sky T 
Gather No Moss T 
Kid Fears T 
Latest Edition T 
Limited Edition T 
Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds T 
New Standards S 
Obscured By Clouds S,TR 
Overhang Approach T 
Slip and Slide T 
Special Edition T 
Stairway to Heaven T 
Stannard's Crack T 
Three Cam Party T 
Two Man Party Orange T,S,TR 
Two Man Party Red T,S,TR 
Two-Man Party Yellow S 
Unsorted Routes:

Special Edition 

YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Jody Jacobs - 1992
Page Views: 1,554
Submitted By: saxfiend on Apr 7, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (9)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
Frank puts his trust in friction as he leads Speci...

Description 

A fine steep slab climb that demands good friction footwork.

Move up the steep face with sparse holds past three bolts. The crux is well protected by the first bolt; eases off somewhat between the second and third bolts.

Location 

Down the trail right of the Army balance climbs; starts just right of Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds. Rap from the anchors.

Protection 

Light rack; a couple of small cams before the first bolt are about all you can get. Bolted anchors shared by Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds.


Photos of Special Edition Slideshow Add Photo
Sue cleaning Special Edition.
Sue cleaning Special Edition.

Comments on Special Edition Add Comment
Show which comments
By Joey Wolfe
Sep 13, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

I climbed this today and did not see a third bolt. Did not see where one use to be either. Thin gear; the two smallest ball-nuts, 000 c3, and 00 c3 protect the start. A 0 c3 and .4 C4 will protect you to the anchors after passing two bolts.

If you are headed up to the Second Overhang you can do it easily in one pitch with a 60m rope.

Highly enjoyable lead

edit:The guide book also says 'three' bolts, must have been a typo. LSD has three bolts and starts in almost the same spot, maybe this caused a bit of confusion?
By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Oct 27, 2008

Yep, two bolts on the route, it's never had three. 1st bolt protects the mantle move, 2nd bolt you clip from the stance after doing the mantle. Going up and slightly right to the new anchor that's shared with Limited is indeed recommended unless you're passing that station and heading to the second overhang to do a route up there.
By RadDawg
From: NE, GA
Jun 5, 2009

Just to clarify things, this is the next bolted route to the right of Lucy in the Sky with Diamonds. Its also the right most line featuring two bolts on this section of the wall.