One of the few "true classics" at Lost Wall, this route actually has 3 variations. For the original route, climb the shallow corner to the top, then move left to an RP sized weakness. Finish by moving up to the ledge, then left through a V shaped roof/slot. For a 5.9- version, after reaching the top of the shallow corner, climb straight up through a short runout section to the same ledge as the original and move left to the V roof. The third variation is actually a separate route called "Easy Street", 5.8. Wander off to the right after the shallow corner and finish on a ledge.
Location
Walk past Booze and Broads to the end of the dihedral area. About 100ft past this point, you will see a very tall slab split by a shallow left facing corner that ends about halfway up, with orange roofs at the top.
Protection
You'll need some smaller cams in addition to the usual standard rack. Nuts work very well on this climb, too.
By saxfiend Administrator From: Atlanta, GA Jan 3, 2007
This is a cool route. I think we did something along the lines of the middle variation, though it's hard to say for sure since the guy I was seconding tends to make his own route "variations."
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