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Siberia
Routes Sorted
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A Bull with Gas S 
Bazooka, The T 
Ben Scabbyface T 
Broken Dreams T 
Child Proof T 
Cross-Roads Finish S 
Dos Chi Chis S 
Gandy S 
George's Route (aka Binder) S 
Glen's Crack T 
Hollywood Rattlesnake T 
Irish Toothache S 
Jack T 
Kublai Corner T 
Leon Redbone S 
Love Gas S 
Old Hornington T 
Original Route (aka Jake Off) T 
Randy T 
Showers With Dad S 
Toby S 
Weo S 
Yasmine Bleeth S 
Unsorted Routes:

George's Route (aka Binder) 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 100'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: George Armstrong, Todd Gordon, Tucker Tech.
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 2,317
Submitted By: Randy on Oct 13, 2004

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (33)
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Susan Peplow leading George's Route 5.8

Description 

This route climbs the dark patina-covered, buttress (Buttress 3) just right of the buttress/face containing Dos Chi Chis and Yasmine Bleeth (Buttress 2, which has pointer above it).

Climb up past 6 bolts to a ledge [the Cross-Roads Finish, route 477, begins off this ledge]. 2 more bolts protect face to another ledge/block and a 2 bolt anchor/rap (100 feet!).

The logical finish to this route is to make a short (35 foot) rap down to the ledge system below, then climb left onto a very narrow and overbolted buttress [Cross-Roads Finish; route 477]. From the top of Cross Roads Finish, you can rap from slings to the rap anchor atop George's Route and make a second rap [100'] to the ground.


Protection 

8 bolts; 2 bolt anchor, 100 foot rap off. Optional gear to 2.5 inches.


Photos of George's Route (aka Binder) Slideshow Add Photo
Tim Pinar on George's Route.
Tim Pinar on George's Route.
Binder
Binder
Binder
Binder
Working the bottom portion of "George's Route...
Working the bottom portion of "George's Route...

Comments on George's Route (aka Binder) Add Comment
Show which comments
By Locker
From: Yucca Valley, CA
May 12, 2005

a 60meter rope gets you all the way up and down. No anchors are at the ledge so if by some chance you wish to do it with a 50meter rope and in two pitches be prepared to rig a rap anchor from the ledge and leave it behind for we locals to get some more "booty".......
By Woody Stark
Oct 27, 2005
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Good warm-up for Dos Chichis and Yasmin Bleeth. It's well protected and has rap anchors to take you to the bottom with one rope. It's definitely the easiest of the three.
By C Miller
Administrator
Feb 25, 2006
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Decent climbing, but the first few moves are on somewhat questionable rock, and a fall before the first bolt is not a good idea. A #1 Camalot (or equivalent) can be place between bolts 6 and 7 if desired to ease the runout.

Easily done in one pitch up and down with a 60 meter rope; it's about 90' down to the top of the starting block. Two stars out of five.
By toddgordon
From: Joshua Tree, California
May 27, 2009

There is now a FP on the ledge, so there is something to clip before heading up to the last to bolts on the final headwall.....it's a wee bit hidden in an overlap, but still one should see it;....It's about a 1 1/2 in. big angle piton....
By attila
Feb 13, 2010
rating: 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b

Easy and fun. Pro is good, anchor is well placed.