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Hinterlands
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Crows Nest Gully 
Geographic Factor 
Go Deep or Go Home 
Prestor John 
Prestor Pillar 

Geographic Factor 

WI5

   
Type:  Ice
Consensus: WI5 [details]
FA: Brian Brodeur and Tim Gotwols 1978
Page Views: 2,454
Submitted By: lee hansche on Jan 31, 2007

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Mike Garrity on the steep stuff, Geographic Factor...

Description 

On the right side of the Hinterlands in the winter, you will find and impressive flow of ice pouring from a basaltic dike. This is Geographic Factor, Rumney's most classic ice climb. It's about 100 feet tall with varied climbing the bulk of the business coming in the middle.

Starting out, it's hard to tell how steep it is, but as you climb the awkward first half of the route in a corner next to a rock face, you see the pillar looming above you at about 50 feet you can rest in a cave place some killer gear and get ready to get pumped. Exit the cave and climb the super steep pillar and try to be quick about it. It gets pumpy. After about 20 feet of steep you get a stance on normally sun baked ice, 20 feet of moderate climbing leads to a trick but not too hard exit bulge.

Super exposed positioning and interesting climbing make this one a must do!!!

Location 

When you get to the Hinterlands walk right.

Protection 

A full rack of screws.
Piton in the corner down low, may be covered in ice.
Fixed sling and ring anchor on the tree at the top.


Photos of Geographic Factor Slideshow Add Photo
Mike swings hard on the last few moves of Geographic Factor....
Mike swings hard on the last few moves of Geograph...
Close up on the crux pillar and upper section in pretty good condition....
BETA PHOTO: Close up on the crux pillar and upper section in p...
This is Geographic Factor...the narrow pillar looming above is the crux...have fun....
BETA PHOTO: This is Geographic Factor...the narrow pillar loom...
looking down from the belay... thats my dad... ernie
looking down from the belay... thats my dad... ern...

Comments on Geographic Factor Add Comment
Show which comments
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Feb 2, 2010

here is a very simple video of the climb...
By Bababata
From: New Haven, CT
Dec 5, 2012

How is this a WI5? Looks like a 30 ft section of almost vertical ice. Is the camera angle deceptive? Looks really fun, though!
By Glenn Cilley
From: Laconia, NH
Dec 5, 2012

The crux column is over hanging for about 2 body lengths, great route!
By lee hansche
Administrator
From: goffstown, nh
Dec 5, 2012

it all depends on conditions... normally its like glenn describes but ive been on it when it wasnt quite ready and it was solid 5+ and when it was fat and pegged out and felt like a grade 4... in any case it is super fun and not easy :)