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 ADVANCED
Genocide Cave
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Disturbance S 
Genocide T 
Green Envy S 

Genocide 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a PG13

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ ZA: 25 British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Full line: C.Holcamp
Page Views: 391
Submitted By: Joseph DeGaetano on Aug 27, 2012

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Description 

At the far left end of the "Genocide Cave" is its namesake route, Genocide. A somewhat scruffy, poweful overhanging face leads to a stance in an alcove. Clip the only bolt on the route at about 30 feet, breathe a sigh of relief, and ready yourself for the cruxy exit to establish a stance at the base of the beautiful finger/thin hands crack. This is what you live for, or hopefully so. A 10 foot section of thin finger locks gains you easier crack climbing. Gain your composure through this section as you ready yourself for one last thinker move.

Location 

Left end of the Genocide cave,just left of McCray Fish and Chips.

Protection 

An onsight would be proud and very bold. With that said, climb smart. The top protects fine, the bottom is the issue. You can protect the bottom adequately but should you not get the crucial peice or botch the clip and fall, you are looking at groundfall potential. Make sure your belayer is attentive and knows the deal.


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