Sign Up  |   Log In:Login with Facebook
REI Community
Sabbatical Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Baby Fat T 
Bon Voyage T 
Coat Hanger T 
De-Birth T 
Decreation T 
Dust Lung T 
Finger Fun T 
Genetics T 
Immaculate Conception T 
Induced Labor T 
Minute Man T 
Miscarriage T 
Mother  T 
My Son is a Perv! T,TR 
Reincarnation T 
Sabbatical 36 T 
Stillborn T 
Toss, The T 
Unknown D.F. Route T 
Unknown Flake T 
Womb, The T 
Unsorted Routes:


YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c

Type:  Trad, 60'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.13- French: 7c+ Ewbanks: 29 UIAA: IX+ ZA: 29 British: E7 6c [details]
FA: Kingsbury, Pack
New Route: Yes
Page Views: 929
Submitted By: Patrick Kingsbury on Jul 23, 2013

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (1)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [0 people like this page.]
BETA PHOTO: looking down from the anchor

RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. MORE INFO >>>


Starts with a traverse in at a horizontal to a knee bar section, protected by a bolt and then a super thin splitter with face features to the anchor. Run out at top for the last 15 feet or so.


Just left of Immaculate Conception


Mostly black and blue aliens, a yellow C3, a yellow alien and a #3 BD at the start.

Comments on Genetics Add Comment
Show which comments
By hkennedy
Mar 17, 2015

Thanks Pat for a really cool route, you have a good eye for these "new-school" routes. Just after the bolt I found that the yellow BD X4 worked super well, other than that the gear beta is right on.
By Nate Sydnor
Jul 7, 2015

I heard through the grapevine that the first free ascent of this route was done with fixed pins in place in the upper crack, which were then removed after the lead. Not that it particularly matters, but I'd be interested to know if there's any truth to that.
By Patrick Kingsbury
Jul 14, 2015

Nate, I originally aided the line and did use 2 pins towards the top to get the anchor where I wanted it. I removed the pins before the free lead, the day i aided it (pic above, no chalk), but did rehearse it quite abit on top rope. The slight run out where the pins were isn't the crux.

I did leave some pins on "Still Life", and one on "Decreation" further down the wall, that I did clip for the send though.

Glad you're psyched on some of these line's Hayden!

The Definitive
Climbing Resource

Inspiration & Motivation
to Fuel Your Run

Next Generation Mountain
Bike Trail Maps

Backcountry, Sidecountry
& Secret Stashes

Better Data. Better Tools.
Better Hikes!