Route Guide - iPhone / Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
Main Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Axis of Power 
Bats in the Belfry 
Bone Crusher 
Bull in a China Shop 
Cowgirl Diplomacy 
Cry Baby 
Evil Offspring 
Evil Surprise  
Friendly Fire 
Glued, Screwed, and Tatooed 
Got Gingko 
Hand Job 
Haul of Flame 
Heart Shaped Box 
Heart Shaped Drill 
Honed Improvement 
Hooked On Pockets 
Kindest Cut 
Kolaric Energy 
Last Episode 
Limestone Cowgirl 
Mighty Morphin 
Pocket Runt 
Pockets of Resistance 
Power Monger 
Power Trip 
Pretty Pasties 
Razor Burn 
Sacrificial Lizard 
Shortest Straw 
State of Panic 
Swiss Arete 
System in Ruins 
Take Your Pick 
Tales From the Grypt 
Thin Thin, The 
This Old Route 
Total Lack of Jump 
Trick Mechanics 
Twist of Cain 
Twisted Sister 
Under Attack 
Unpopular Mechanics 
Wind Chill 
Zone of Exclusion 


YDS: 5.10d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b

Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10c/d French: 6b+ Ewbanks: 21 UIAA: VII+ British: E3 5b [details]
FA: Jim Steagall, Deidre Burton
Page Views: 2,563
Submitted By: Anthony Stout on Sep 22, 2006
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (51)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Genesis (August 2013)


A stellar line and area classic. Probably one of the best 10s in the area, if not THE best.


Very first route on the leftmost side of the crag. Would be hard to miss as it's one of the only climbs on the Main Wall thats less than overhung!


6 bolts to anchors.

Photos of Genesis Slideshow Add Photo
Allison On-sighting Genesis, 5.10d
Allison On-sighting Genesis, 5.10d
The approach to Genesis (May 2013)
BETA PHOTO: The approach to Genesis (May 2013)
Comments on Genesis Add Comment
Show which comments
By WSnyder
Oct 25, 2006

One of the best climbs in the canyon regardless of the grade.

By Anthony Stout
From: Albuquerque, NM
Dec 8, 2006

100% agreed!

By susan peplow
From: Joshua Tree
Apr 2, 2007

Deidre replaced one of the two shut anchors on 3/31/07 but the other is still worn and needs replacement. This route gets a lot of traffic. Please on this route and all routes - do not run the rope directly through the anchor for toproping or lowering. Use quickdraws for TR and have the last person fish through and rappel.

By Allison Fritz
Jun 2, 2007

A Jack's must!

By noburu
From: Flagstaff
Aug 1, 2007

That darn last corner up top has killed my red-point both times...this're mine!!!

By Colonel Mustard
From: Reno, NV
Jun 13, 2010
rating: 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ E3 5b

A quibble with the OP's wording: I would not characterize Genesis as "less than overhung". Maybe "less overhung" was the intent? Regardless, a fine route I find more pumpy than many of the 11s in Jacks.

By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
May 22, 2012

Needs washing and scrubbing as it's getting slimy. Fun nonetheless.