Beginning Feb. 1st each year, a seasonal wildlife closure will be in effect on Redgarden Wall in Eldorado Canyon State Park to protect nesting and roosting sites of the canyon’s falcons. The closure is in effect through July 31st unless lifted early due to early fledging or inactivity.
The closure includes the following climbing routes: The Naked Edge (last 3 pitches only), The Diving Board, Centaur, Redguard (last 3 pitches only), Red Ant, Semi-Wild, Anthill Direct (last 3 pitches only), and The Sidetrack.
A classic line - the first pitch at least, I haven't tried the second .12+ pitch although it is one of Eldo's (and the nation's) best face climbing testpieces.
This line lies to the left of C'est La Vie, it begins in a left-angling dihedral/crack, then moves left around a bulge and onto a slab. After some easy climbing up the crack, one finds an awkward .10c crack move up to the bulge where there are two good pins. Move left onto a small stance and crank a .10 slab move (guidebook gives this .11a but it seemed very easy compared to other Eldo .11as) move up the slab past another 5.10 section and some bolts, yard up a 5.9 flake to a two bolt anchor, from here one can lower off or continue on the hard second pitch.
Per Joshua Merriam: [I'm adding this to reduce confusion, hoping the original entry can be changed to just p1]
Genesis starts off a ledge 30' up on the left side of the S. Buttress of Redgarden. The first pitch starts as a left-facing, leaning dihedral capped by an overhang which you slip around left onto the slab. Then some face climbing gets you to the first anchor. (soft at 11b?) BUT there is 30 feet more climbing for those so inclined.
Clip the anchors, switch to the good holds up and L of the anchor and clip another bolt.
Per Bob D. - The crux pitch is more of a short, boulder problem with gear (bolts) at your waist. Crank hard off the flake to a small edge, press down almost turning into a mantle. There is a good size runout to good gear placements about 15-20 feet above the crux.
P1: There is a lot of fixed gear on this route, bring some stoppers and a few mid range cams for the beginning. 3 bolts.
P2: 1 bolt, + tricky small gear, 1 fixed wire to second anchor.
This is a spectacular line, with some of the best face climbing in the park. Don't let the funky 5.10c crack moves before the crux fluster you, just look around for small footholds on the face and get your feet on. I suggest pulling the crux moves around the corner before clipping the 2 pins in the horizontal seam, because there is a good rest when the moves are done where you can equalize the pins if you feel so inclined. The face climbing above is impecable and well protected, just tread lightly on the final 5.9 moves up the expanding flake and definitely don't place gear behind it!
We finished my third climbing day in Colorado with very good tour of Eldorado including The Naked Edge and Super Slab routes. Our last route was very nice climb of the Genesis. This route starts in cracks near to the ground and goes over a roof and up to a thick flake. We felt that it was incorrect to move too far right to set up for second pitch and so did whole route in one pitch. After the flake were many small edges of square shape and more thin holds requiring good hand strength and careful thinking over sequences. This route gave very satisfying flash for me after difficult struggle not to fall off above the flake.
The December 2003 issue of Fast Company magazine contains an article by Jim Collins, entitled "Leadership Lessons of a Rock Climber". One "lesson" in the article gives an interesting description of how Jim mentally prepared himself for the first ascent of Genesis.
By William McGehee From: Choctaw, OK Mar 11, 2004 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Lots of fun, but I think you've been climbing in Eldo too long Patrick! First pitch feels a little harder than Rincon's Center Route to me. Background info: I've had a fever for a few days so I am rather weak right now. I sat just before turning the roof and wanted to sit almost every move afterwards. The sequence to gain the lieback after the roof is tough. Slot your hand in a hard-to-reach undercling and smear like it's your job to gain a 'decent' crimp. If you're leading, place a yellow cam before the roof, clip the pin, the just trust it and GO! Pump factor = two letters up from grade .10c. Still fun and I want to get on it as soon as I'm well. Pins and bolts are solid on P1.
Can anyone comment on the upper pitch of this? Is it an over rated choss pile like that Twitch route? Where is the major difficulity? Cheers!
By Ivan Rezucha From: Fort Collins, CO Mar 21, 2004 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
Although there are no 11a moves, the continuous nature of the climbing and the pumpy lower half make this tough to onsight for an 11a climber. The "10c" approach to the A-shaped ceiling is intimidating at first, but there is a good rest before, and good gear. There is a stem rest at the A-shaped roof, but it's not mentally relaxing. The "11a" move at the bottom of the face felt easy to me when I didn't care if I made it, but felt quite hard when I was trying to redpoint and wanted to guarantee the move. Moving left near the top is scary for me. Clipping that pin with the 2 chain links out to the left is hard - you have to rock onto your left foot on a shiny slanting hold, a ways above the previous bolt. I desperately and blindly placed a yellow Alien in the flake to protect the move left to clip. My partner Chuck thinks the upper half is 5.9, a bit of an exaggeration, but he's real good on his feet, and I'm not.
This is a great pitch (p.1) good rock, good pro fun moves - the whole shabang!!! I thought the move out of the A-frame was the most difficult part for me. It reminded me [a lot] of the crux of The Northcutt Start to the Bastille, and I had a hard time with that as well. I'm just not that great at that type of move [around] bulges and such. The face section above was too fun. It seems to me that the distance to the next bolt made it even more fun!! Classic line with adequate pro, hop on it if you haven't already!!
[I don't know if anyone cares, but there is a knee bar with a no hands rest about half way up the lieback to the A-frame roof. It takes some courage, because you're above a shiesty pin, but a good way to rest for that move on to the face. Also, your friends will think you're cool hanging sideways on your knee....]
You can sew up the 5.10c trad section by placing a #1 camalot above the pin and a small cam in the arching crack. ( 0.2 camalot ) This will give you a TR protection through the 10c section.Good footwork makes this section fairly easy.
It is probably not a good idea to try this one on a hot sunny day. The smears on the upper slab are a little tough to trust.
By Mike McKinnon From: Golden, CO Nov 8, 2004 rating: 5.11a6c22VII+22E3 5c
I red pointed the 1st pitch of this route the other day. Waht a great pitch. It is very well protected. I had a #1 Camalot below the pin, then the pin, and then I placed a blue Alien and purple TCU (0) in the arching crack to gain the face. Sewed up would be an understatement. There is a giant jug at the lip of the roof off which that you can clip the pins. Great route.
By KCP From: Eldorado Springs, CO Jul 17, 2005 rating: 5.12+7c28IX27E6 6b
I'm calling this route 12d because I don't feel comfortable with debating the grade of such an established route, although I don't think that it is as hard as The Monument. Maybe I was just used to this type of climbing, having come from the East.
Just a thought for those of you who are rating routes by individual pitches: Genesis is a multi-pitch route, with its crux pitch logging in at 12+, not 5.11. The standard is to do both pitches as one.
I'm referring to doing the whole pitch, 5.12, in this post & not just up to the chains as most parties do. I have done this route many times in the past in the late 80s & early 90s. But I was up there the other day and this route appears to have lost a good, key, left foothold that used to be there on the initial undercling, stem, layback, mantle sequence.(5.12 Crux) You used to be able to get a pretty good, wide stem with it before doing an opposition/mantle layback move up to the pin scar/finger bucket. If anyone has done this recently, I'm curious how hard they think it is now.
In response to Ken's comment, doing this as a single pitch is the standard way to do the 12 crux.
Can you really ask for more in such a short pitch (only did pitch 1)? Hand crack, lieback, foot work, stemming, a roof/bulge, and thin face moves. Excellent. If you work your feet well and move quickly the roof isn't that bad...and then you can rest forever before starting the face.