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Redgarden - S Buttress
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Whittle Whisk T 

Genesis 

YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 2 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12+ French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 27 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jim Collins
Fixed Hardware: 6 Lead Pins, 2 Lead Bolts, 2 Anchor Bolts, 2 Belay Bolts [details]
Page Views: 7,579
Submitted By: Patrick Vernon on Jan 1, 2001

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Jeff Russell near the top of Genesis (photo: Dan R...

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  • Description 

    A classic line - the first pitch at least, I haven't tried the second .12+ pitch although it is one of Eldo's (and the nation's) best face climbing testpieces.

    This line lies to the left of C'est La Vie, it begins in a left-angling dihedral/crack, then moves left around a bulge and onto a slab. After some easy climbing up the crack, one finds an awkward .10c crack move up to the bulge where there are two good pins. Move left onto a small stance and crank a .10 slab move (guidebook gives this .11a but it seemed very easy compared to other Eldo .11as) move up the slab past another 5.10 section and some bolts, yard up a 5.9 flake to a two bolt anchor, from here one can lower off or continue on the hard second pitch.

    Per Joshua Merriam: [I'm adding this to reduce confusion, hoping the original entry can be changed to just p1]

    Genesis starts off a ledge 30' up on the left side of the S. Buttress of Redgarden. The first pitch starts as a left-facing, leaning dihedral capped by an overhang which you slip around left onto the slab. Then some face climbing gets you to the first anchor. (soft at 11b?) BUT there is 30 feet more climbing for those so inclined.

    Clip the anchors, switch to the good holds up and L of the anchor and clip another bolt.

    Per Bob D. - The crux pitch is more of a short, boulder problem with gear (bolts) at your waist. Crank hard off the flake to a small edge, press down almost turning into a mantle. There is a good size runout to good gear placements about 15-20 feet above the crux.

    Protection 

    P1: There is a lot of fixed gear on this route, bring some stoppers and a few mid range cams for the beginning. 3 bolts.

    P2: 1 bolt, + tricky small gear, 1 fixed wire to second anchor.


    Photos of Genesis Slideshow Add Photo
    Danny on the first pitch.
    Danny on the first pitch.
    Matt the "Comcast" guy on an evening run after work still in uniform.
    Matt the "Comcast" guy on an evening run...
    Some unknown hard-crankin female powering through the .10c roof on Genesis.
    Some unknown hard-crankin female powering through ...
    Final picture of hard-core climber high on the first pitch of Genesis below and right of the first anchor. Photos taken from atop the Whale's Tail.
    Final picture of hard-core climber high on the fir...
    Cody Scarpella gets the redpoint of pitch 2.
    Cody Scarpella gets the redpoint of pitch 2.
    Below the 10c section.
    Below the 10c section.
    Same hard-core female at the pin just past the roof, left foot on crucial hold.
    Same hard-core female at the pin just past the roo...
    another fine Eldo climb!
    another fine Eldo climb!
    Bob Horan repeating Genesis, circa 1984. Photo; Bob Horan Collection.
    Bob Horan repeating Genesis, circa 1984. Photo; Bo...
    @ the anchor...
    @ the anchor...
    Lisa pushing out the slab moves on her way to repeat Genesis.
    Lisa pushing out the slab moves on her way to repe...
    Unknown climber on Genesis? <br />...taken from Redguard, January 2009.
    Unknown climber on Genesis? ...taken from Redguard...
    Mike Kurilich heading up pitch 1 Genesis.
    Mike Kurilich heading up pitch 1 Genesis.
    Sorry for the blur... <br />this was the crux for me -- figuring  <br />out the moves out of the roof. <br />(at least the pins are solid)
    Sorry for the blur... this was the crux for me -- ...
    Joseffa Meir leads up P1 of 'Genesis' (5.11a) on Eldo's Redgarden Wall. Photo by Tony Bubb, 5/07.
    Joseffa Meir leads up P1 of 'Genesis' (5.11a) on E...
    Crux pitch of Genesis from an innocuous angle. A great pitch that deserves much more traffic.
    Crux pitch of Genesis from an innocuous angle. A g...
    Ivan gets to the slab half of pitch 1.
    Ivan gets to the slab half of pitch 1.
    Above the 10c section.
    Above the 10c section.
    We only got the first pitch today, but this pitch is as good as it gets.
    We only got the first pitch today, but this pitch ...
    Jim Collins on Genesis (5.12+), Eldorado Canyon SP. <br /> <br />Photo by Glenn Randall.
    Jim Collins on Genesis (5.12+), Eldorado Canyon SP...

    Comments on Genesis Add Comment
    Show which comments
    Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Oct 7, 2009
    By Kristo torgersen
    Aug 1, 2001

    This is a spectacular line, with some of the best face climbing in the park. Don't let the funky 5.10c crack moves before the crux fluster you, just look around for small footholds on the face and get your feet on. I suggest pulling the crux moves around the corner before clipping the 2 pins in the horizontal seam, because there is a good rest when the moves are done where you can equalize the pins if you feel so inclined. The face climbing above is impecable and well protected, just tread lightly on the final 5.9 moves up the expanding flake and definitely don't place gear behind it!
    By Sven Lavransen
    Aug 10, 2001

    We finished my third climbing day in Colorado with very good tour of Eldorado including The Naked Edge and Super Slab routes. Our last route was very nice climb of the Genesis. This route starts in cracks near to the ground and goes over a roof and up to a thick flake. We felt that it was incorrect to move too far right to set up for second pitch and so did whole route in one pitch. After the flake were many small edges of square shape and more thin holds requiring good hand strength and careful thinking over sequences. This route gave very satisfying flash for me after difficult struggle not to fall off above the flake.
    By Jake Wyatt
    From: Longmont, CO
    Nov 17, 2003

    The December 2003 issue of Fast Company magazine contains an article by Jim Collins, entitled "Leadership Lessons of a Rock Climber". One "lesson" in the article gives an interesting description of how Jim mentally prepared himself for the first ascent of Genesis.
    By William McGehee
    From: Choctaw, OK
    Mar 11, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Lots of fun, but I think you've been climbing in Eldo too long Patrick! First pitch feels a little harder than Rincon's Center Route to me. Background info: I've had a fever for a few days so I am rather weak right now. I sat just before turning the roof and wanted to sit almost every move afterwards. The sequence to gain the lieback after the roof is tough. Slot your hand in a hard-to-reach undercling and smear like it's your job to gain a 'decent' crimp. If you're leading, place a yellow cam before the roof, clip the pin, the just trust it and GO! Pump factor = two letters up from grade .10c. Still fun and I want to get on it as soon as I'm well. Pins and bolts are solid on P1.
    By adam brink
    From: Boulder, CO
    Mar 12, 2004

    Can anyone comment on the upper pitch of this? Is it an over rated choss pile like that Twitch route? Where is the major difficulity? Cheers!
    By Ivan Rezucha
    From: Fort Collins, CO
    Mar 21, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    Although there are no 11a moves, the continuous nature of the climbing and the pumpy lower half make this tough to onsight for an 11a climber. The "10c" approach to the A-shaped ceiling is intimidating at first, but there is a good rest before, and good gear. There is a stem rest at the A-shaped roof, but it's not mentally relaxing. The "11a" move at the bottom of the face felt easy to me when I didn't care if I made it, but felt quite hard when I was trying to redpoint and wanted to guarantee the move. Moving left near the top is scary for me. Clipping that pin with the 2 chain links out to the left is hard - you have to rock onto your left foot on a shiny slanting hold, a ways above the previous bolt. I desperately and blindly placed a yellow Alien in the flake to protect the move left to clip. My partner Chuck thinks the upper half is 5.9, a bit of an exaggeration, but he's real good on his feet, and I'm not.
    By raphael lagrange
    Jun 2, 2004

    This is a great pitch (p.1) good rock, good pro fun moves - the whole shabang!!! I thought the move out of the A-frame was the most difficult part for me. It reminded me [a lot] of the crux of The Northcutt Start to the Bastille, and I had a hard time with that as well. I'm just not that great at that type of move [around] bulges and such. The face section above was too fun. It seems to me that the distance to the next bolt made it even more fun!! Classic line with adequate pro, hop on it if you haven't already!!
    By micah stocker
    Jun 7, 2004

    [I don't know if anyone cares, but there is a knee bar with a no hands rest about half way up the lieback to the A-frame roof. It takes some courage, because you're above a shiesty pin, but a good way to rest for that move on to the face. Also, your friends will think you're cool hanging sideways on your knee....]
    By Anonymous Coward
    Aug 18, 2004

    A good first 11 since it is well protected and after the roof the pump clock doesn't tick it's just technical.
    By Guy H.
    From: Fort Collins CO
    Aug 31, 2004

    You can sew up the 5.10c trad section by placing a #1 camalot above the pin and a small cam in the arching crack. ( 0.2 camalot ) This will give you a TR protection through the 10c section.Good footwork makes this section fairly easy.

    It is probably not a good idea to try this one on a hot sunny day. The smears on the upper slab are a little tough to trust.
    By Mike McKinnon
    From: Golden, CO
    Nov 8, 2004
    rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

    I red pointed the 1st pitch of this route the other day. Waht a great pitch. It is very well protected. I had a #1 Camalot below the pin, then the pin, and then I placed a blue Alien and purple TCU (0) in the arching crack to gain the face. Sewed up would be an understatement. There is a giant jug at the lip of the roof off which that you can clip the pins. Great route.
    By KCP
    From: Eldorado Springs, CO
    Jul 17, 2005
    rating: 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b

    I'm calling this route 12d because I don't feel comfortable with debating the grade of such an established route, although I don't think that it is as hard as The Monument. Maybe I was just used to this type of climbing, having come from the East.

    Just a thought for those of you who are rating routes by individual pitches: Genesis is a multi-pitch route, with its crux pitch logging in at 12+, not 5.11. The standard is to do both pitches as one.
    By Bob Rotert
    Apr 13, 2007

    I'm referring to doing the whole pitch, 5.12, in this post & not just up to the chains as most parties do. I have done this route many times in the past in the late 80s & early 90s. But I was up there the other day and this route appears to have lost a good, key, left foothold that used to be there on the initial undercling, stem, layback, mantle sequence.(5.12 Crux) You used to be able to get a pretty good, wide stem with it before doing an opposition/mantle layback move up to the pin scar/finger bucket. If anyone has done this recently, I'm curious how hard they think it is now.

    In response to Ken's comment, doing this as a single pitch is the standard way to do the 12 crux.
    By Paul Hunnicutt
    From: Boulder, CO
    Sep 13, 2007

    Can you really ask for more in such a short pitch (only did pitch 1)? Hand crack, lieback, foot work, stemming, a roof/bulge, and thin face moves. Excellent. If you work your feet well and move quickly the roof isn't that bad...and then you can rest forever before starting the face.
    By Jon Ruland
    From: Tucson, AZ
    Oct 7, 2009

    Why grade the climb if you're only going to do the first pitch?