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Willow River State Park
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Genesis Effect 

YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12d French: 7c Ewbanks: 28 UIAA: IX ZA: 28 British: E6 6b [details]
FA: Jeff Engel and Paul Bjork - 1995
Page Views: 1,641
Submitted By: randy baum on Feb 8, 2006

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the rest just before the crux

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Description 

Look for the small black cave at the base of the formation. Just a meter or so to the left, climb the slabbish section to a 45-degree overhang. Follow the bolts up and to the right.

Protection 

Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.


Photos of Genesis Effect Slideshow Add Photo
matt arriving at the rest before the crux.
matt arriving at the rest before the crux.
post crux moves.
post crux moves.
matt up high on the route.
matt up high on the route.

Comments on Genesis Effect Add Comment
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By randy baum
From: Minneapolis, MN
Mar 17, 2010

genesis effect was the first route bolted at willow. the line consists of big holds and some varied movement, including toes hooks and underclings. the crux is using some of this trickery to do big moves between some huge holds that are harder to pull on than you'd think.

genesis effect shares the same start as couch time. once past the "slabby" section and over the first/main roof of the start, do not head right; this is couch time. instead, veer upward through huecos, pockets, and flat jugs. after about five bolts you'll come to a bulge that has a big slot at it's base. two bolts past this and you're at the anchors, a super cold shut and bolt with a leaver biner. genesis effect takes 8-10 draws.
By AntVicino
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b

The big epoxied tooth broke off a couple weeks ago. No change to the grade though. Dodged a bullet with that one though. Could have easily made the route veeeeeeeery difficult.
By Monty
From: Golden, CO
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b

I would say couch time is is a good benchmark 12c. This is a notch below that at 12b/c. Great movement on HUGE holds.