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Look for the small black cave at the base of the formation. Just a meter or so to the left, climb the slabbish section to a 45-degree overhang. Follow the bolts up and to the right.
Bolts. Please do not toprope off of the fixed gear at the top, use your own draws for that. If the biners on the chains look worn or do not work properly, please replace them. It's good karma.
mike at the start.
mike moving through the roof.
mike at the hueco (4th bolt).
mike moving past the hueco.
zee crux throw. done here by mike.
post crux moves.
susan at the start.
susan pulling the roof.
susan at the third bolt.
susan moving through the hueco.
|Comments on Genesis Effect
|By randy baum|
From: Minneapolis, MN
Mar 17, 2010
genesis effect was the first route bolted at willow. the line consists of big holds and some varied movement, including toes hooks and underclings. the crux is using some of this trickery to do big moves between some huge holds that are harder to pull on than you'd think.
genesis effect shares the same start as couch time. once past the "slabby" section and over the first/main roof of the start, do not head right; this is couch time. instead, veer upward through huecos, pockets, and flat jugs. after about five bolts you'll come to a bulge that has a big slot at it's base. two bolts past this and you're at the anchors, a super cold shut and bolt with a leaver biner. genesis effect takes 8-10 draws.
Sep 21, 2010
rating: 5.12d 7c 28 IX E6 6b
The big epoxied tooth broke off a couple weeks ago. No change to the grade though. Dodged a bullet with that one though. Could have easily made the route veeeeeeeery difficult.
From: Golden, CO
Jun 22, 2012
rating: 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- E6 6b
I would say couch time is is a good benchmark 12c. This is a notch below that at 12b/c. Great movement on HUGE holds.