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Generous Donation 

YDS: 5.11b/c French: 6c+ Ewbanks: 23 UIAA: VIII- ZA: 24 British: E4 6a

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 80'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Bruno Haché and Ron Olsen, 5/13/07
New Route: Yes
Season: Mid-Spring to Mid-Fall
Page Views: 1,810
Submitted By: Bruno Hache on May 13, 2007

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (36)
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Description 

Great summer climb, in the shade from noonish. The crux is from the 3rd bolt to the 4th bolt. Very nice 30-foot sequence of reachy and fingery technical moves up a steep headwall await you, just up from the anchor atop the first pitch of Toe the Line. Once past the "not that easy" roof mantle, easier ground will bring you to a top-anchor shared with the second pitch of Toe the Line.

Rappel or lower 80' back to the start, and then rappel 95' to the ground.

The name of the route arose from the Generous Donation of a Tyrolean rope by Kevin Currigan and pioneer cleaning (and more to come) by Ron Olsen on this area of Tonnere Tower.

Location 

On the east side of Tonnere Tower, find Toe the Line (the obvious arête). From the top of the first pitch of Toe the Line, climb the headwall straight up from that belay. Route #2 in the ?beta photo?.

Protection 

8 bolts to a 2-bolt anchor. Easier ground above the roof is purposely more run-out to keep it interesting.


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By Ken Leiden
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2007

Bruno and Ron, thanks for the work in putting up this route, (and the tyrolean, and the trail work, etc.!) The crux moves are cool -- those incut edges are small, but very positive. I did a high-step right to get off the headwall -- was that your intention?

I did the route as a single pitch, combining it with the first pitch of Toe the Line. Just a suggestion, why not put an anchor after the headwall so the route (Toe the Line 1st pitch + the crux 11 moves) could be done as a single pitch with a single rope rap. This would make for a continous climb without all the low angle stuff at the end.

Also, we were going to rap your fixed line from the tree at top, but observed that about 8" of sheath is missing from the rope about 20 ft down from the tree. I seriously advise not trusting your life to this rope.

Thanks again!
By Ron Olsen
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 22, 2007

Ken,

Glad you enjoyed the route. You would probably need a 70m rope to rappel from the top of the headwall back to the ground. The end of the first pitch of Toe The Line is about 95' up; the headwall is another 30' or so. I don't think you can get down from there with a 60m rope without doing some down-climbing.

Our intention at Tonnere is to make every route safe to rappel with a 60m rope. Putting in an anchor that requires a 70m rope would be a dangerous thing to do, in my opinion.
By Bruno Hache
From: Longmont, CO
Jun 27, 2007

Ken,
Thanks so much for the warning about the fixed line.
I went up and pulled the rope up so the exposed core was not on the rappel line. You may have saved my life!?! :)

You are very welcome for this addition to Tonnere. It is a fun crux.

About the flat stuff at the end, I would like to make a comment.
Yes, I agree that it is much easier in the flat stuff section.
But I felt that this section is actually fun.
Easy but quite exposed with tons of air.
So to make it interesting, I purposely spaced out the bolts more than at the crux.
More run-out in easier terrain with tons of air! I quite enjoyed it when I did the FA! :) Those were my thoughts when I set it up.

Bruno
By Bruce Pech
Aug 22, 2007
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Like Ken, I did a high step right at the top of the headwall. It appeared to be the logical exit move.

For a pretty nice, quasi-three pitch route, climb both pitches of Toe the Line, rap back to the belay beneath the headwall, and finish up Generous Donation
By Mark Wiranowski
Aug 6, 2009
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Nice route with a fun, albeit short headwall - probably 11a. However, I would urge climbers to be careful about the crux flake. The moves require pulling directly outwards, and over time, this force may dislodge the flake. The belayer and other climbers below should beware and ready in case the flake should go.
By John Rudolph
Sep 25, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

I had a lot of fun on this route last week. Although the 5.11 rating is too high I think. I am just under 6 feet and had no problems reaching the good holds. Superb feet everywhere. Fun climb, 5.10+.