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 ADVANCED
Donnelly Canyon
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Crack Just to Left of Drainpipe, The 
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Generic Crack 
Half Man, Half Alligator Shark 
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Twitterpated 
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Unknown AKA Reclamation 
Unknown Pod Climb. 

Generic Crack 

YDS: 5.9+ French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Jimmy Dunn, Brian Delaney 1976
Page Views: 31,196
Submitted By: Mike Sofranko on Oct 30, 2001
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You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (387)
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Top no hands. Crucial!!

Description 

As described in the Donnelly Canyon intro, this route is quite obvious. On my first visit to the area, I said, "That must be Supercrack." I was wrong, but this is one striking line.

From the parking lot, cross the drainage and head up canyon about 50 yards, then follow an obvious and well built trail up and left to the bottom of the route.

The first pitch is 120 feet long so don't forget the trail line. The first 25 feet or so are the awkward crux of the route, then you're in hand jam heaven. The crack does widen slightly near the anchor. The #4 Camalot is for the obvious pod at the bottom, you could get by without it with a big-hands piece a little lower. Have fun, and don't forget to keep your weight on your feet, no matter how much they hurt.

The route has a wider second pitch that I've never seen anyone climb.


Protection 

9 #2.5 Friends or #2 Camalots, 3 #3 Friends, 1 #3.5 Friend, 1 #4 Camalot trail line



Photos of Generic Crack Slideshow Add Photo
Luke Walker on Generic Crack, from the heli
Luke Walker on Generic Crack, from the heli
look mom no hands
look mom no hands
Full value 5.9, loose pods, and flared crack. Full sun too!
Full value 5.9, loose pods, and flared crack. Full...
one more of generic crack
one more of generic crack
Choo choo
Choo choo
warming up
warming up
how to deal with pods
how to deal with pods
Sam on Generic Crack
Sam on Generic Crack
Nice background scenery.  Photo: Myke K.
Nice background scenery. Photo: Myke K.
Generic Crack, 'nuff said.  Photo  <br />taken 2/02 of Paul Nelson by Greta  <br />Schen.
Generic Crack, 'nuff said. Photo
taken 2/02 of P...
Get those feet jammed, boy!  Photo: Myke
Get those feet jammed, boy! Photo: Myke
View from bottom
View from bottom
Brian cruising up this one
Brian cruising up this one
Tom Rose 1/4 of the way up Generic Crack
Tom Rose 1/4 of the way up Generic Crack
Ben getting into it.  Photo: Myke
Ben getting into it. Photo: Myke
Racking up and getting ready to climb.  Photo: Myke K.
Racking up and getting ready to climb. Photo: Myk...
Ben starting the route.  Charles Vernon belaying.  Photo: Myke
Ben starting the route. Charles Vernon belaying. ...
Finally approaching the chains!
Finally approaching the chains!
Armin onsight 2.
Armin onsight 2.
Ben at the first no-hands pod rest. Photo: Myke
Ben at the first no-hands pod rest. Photo: Myke
Generic Crack, Donnelly Canyon, Indian Creek.
Generic Crack, Donnelly Canyon, Indian Creek.
Nelson leading generic crack
Nelson leading generic crack
Armin onsight.
Armin onsight.
Generic Crack.  Maybe my favorite crack in Indian Creek.
Generic Crack. Maybe my favorite crack in Indian ...
Generic Crack from Supercrack Buttress
Generic Crack from Supercrack Buttress
Blue on Generic Crack.
Blue on Generic Crack.
Suzy Williams on Generic Crack
Suzy Williams on Generic Crack
Comments on Generic Crack Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Jan 2, 2014
By Ben F
From: Benfield, Kolorado
Oct 31, 2001

You can use a 60m rope if your belayer walks uphill (to the right)to lower you (through your own biners). When they second and rap, they can veer that way and safely reach the ground. Thanks for not inflating the grade of this climb like some do.

By Anonymous Coward
Nov 28, 2001

With a 70 metre cord, this route can be toproped with ease. Great climb.

By Bill Wright
Nov 29, 2001

I'll add to the grade inflation, but saying this route is 5.10. So much of this depends on the type of climber and very much on the size of his/her hands, but in relation to the other 5.10's in this area, it is 5.10. Many consider it harder than the Incredible Hand Crack, which is given the 5.10c rating.

This brings up an interesting point with this area. Many of the climbs are not given a letter grade - just 5.10 or 5.10+. I was initially annoyed by this because I am very solid on 10a, but quite desperate on 10d, but I think it makes sense. Whether a route is an easy 5.10 or a hard 5.10 is almost completely dependent on your hand size and your endurance level.

Generic Crack requires much more endurance than the Incredible Hand Crack and while the crux wide pod on GC is not as hard as the overhanging section on IHC, it is more technical. I'd say the routes are very equal in difficulty.

By Mike Sofranko
Nov 29, 2001

Bill brings up a good point in his comment above, and also his comment to Supercrack.

New climbers to IC should really take the ratings with a grain of salt. Don't worry about them too much, especially if you are above or below average in size. It's all hand and foot size dependent - ratings can differ by a number grade or more depending on the climber.

For instance, Chocolate Corner is desperate for me. I onsighted it (barely), but I haven't led it successfully since then. That climb actually has a restraining order against me, I simply can't handle it.

I remember one tiny woman (who needed to fist jam IHC) unwilling to give Battle of the Bulge a try cause it was supposedly 5.11. It would have been good hands for her and a cruise.

By Joe Collins
Nov 30, 2001

This route can actually be easily toproped with a single 60 meter rope. As the belayer lowers the climber (and the climber nears the ground), the belayer can walk up the hill to the (climber's) right. After walking 10-15 feet up the hill the climber will reach the ground. Remember to tie a knot in the end of the rope of course.

By Friso Schlottau
Apr 1, 2002

I will probably get flamed a bit for my comments, but I also hope this will help other first-timers in Indian Creek: This climb looked doable enough for us, but turned out to be a substantial undertaking. The length, and its hunger for #2 Camalot sized gear ended up forcing us to climb until we almost ran out of gear, set an anchor with the last 3 pieces, lower, take outher gear out, switch leads, go up again, etc. Climbing it that way trippled its length, and can NOT be recommended. Fun climb, but make sure you have the gear. I would recommend Chocolate Corner, or Twin Cracks as a more doable alternative (shorter - less gear)

By George Bell
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 1, 2002

I remember starting this lead with seven #2 Camalots, and laughing at this. I also had quite a few 2.5 Friends. But by the time I got to the anchor, they were all gone!

By Dan St. John
From: Castle Rock
Sep 24, 2002

I would say the route is 5.10- based on my relative experience. I am not ashamed to inflate, I mearly wish to communicate to other climbers what I feel the route should be rated. Good foot work and you will not have toe jam completly. I used 7x2, 3, 4 Camalot on the route.

By Ben Mottinger
Founding Father
Oct 7, 2002
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Really good jams and a nice long route. Excellent. Just as good as IHC IMHO.

Since this was my first lead at IC, I will have to "inflate" the grade as well, but when the hands got a little wider at the end, I was getting pumped (for my smaller hands) so I definitely say 5.10. The "technical crux" pod didn't seem that bad. This was really an endurance route for me.

By Max Schon
Nov 11, 2003

I hate this grovel fest about as much as I hate Supercrack. Easy, grovelly, and painful. I'll never understand why people line up for this one, when there are a hundred other "hand cracks" of far superior quality.

By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2003
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Funny enough, I am also not a big fan. Ive repeated a lot of routes at this wall, but not bothered with this one. It's a little flaring and rounded as compared to the classic Indian Creek splitter. I found it to be less than 'great' for the creek- not a destination. There are plenty of better climbs around.

By Brian Delaney
May 4, 2004

Just for the record, Jimmy Dunn and I did the first ascent in '76. We never named it, it seemed odd to name a crack climb when you were surrounded by thousands more. I lead the first pitch and Jimmy lead through to the top on what sounds like the pitch "no one ever does". I remember it being a strenuous OW that Jimmy flew through in his usual style. It's funny reading the gear list for these climbs. I think I placed 3 hexes on the first pitch and Jimmy may have placed a couple on his lead. I remember discussing with him that if he fell and his pieces pulled that we would both be heading for the desert floor. Lousy name, but it's fun to see it get some recognition.

By Danny Inman
From: Arvada
Mar 25, 2005
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI E1 5a

This is a wonderful route in my opinion. The crux for me is the first 25 feet up to and out of the first off-width pod. From there you have about 80 feet of perfect hand jamming to the bolts.

By Mike Willig
Aug 14, 2006

Does anyone know anything about the second pitch??

By Gaar
From: Springdale / Zion UT / Moab
Apr 23, 2007

Dont take too much time placing gear....Just place a piece and go!!!...The faster you go the less it hurts...I placed 3 yellow camolots, one metloious equivilent, and a 2.5 friend (I think), Whatever it was I only placed 5 pieces, and hauled ass up it

By david goldstein
Apr 23, 2007

Terrible advice from Gaar about protecting soft rock. The standard desert recommendation of "a piece every bodylength" is a much sounder way to go.

By John Bradford
From: Yellowstone National Park
Oct 22, 2007
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Have to agree with the above. Make sure you take enough gear. Nothing wrong with hanging if you need to rest. Rating is very dependent on hand size in my opinion. I would say no move is harder that a 9, but the sustained nature and length make this a 10a

By JoshuaTreeRunner
From: Los Angeles
Nov 26, 2007

Good climb but i didnt like the escape/entrance to 2 of the pods.

By Braxtron
From: ...
May 5, 2008
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

Over-rated.

By Darren Knezek
Dec 5, 2008

Someone forgot to add Brian Delaney to the FA along with jimmy.

By Evan Belknap
From: Placitas, NM
Dec 16, 2008

Are there chains above the second pitch?

By Bad Sock Puppet
May 23, 2009
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

The crack is better than it looks when you first reach the bottom. Higher up past the first pod the crack quickly becomes a beautiful hand crack for most of the rest of the climb. The crux is navigating the two pods, with the bottom pod being slightly harder. Right before the chains the crack widens up, so don't rush it and go flying. Overall a very awesome line.

By Skyler Penrod
Oct 2, 2009

I would have to say that #3 Friends are the best piece for the crack. #2 BD aren't bad, but they can be a little too tipped our for my taste in soft rock. I agree with the #4 BD and 1-2 #3 BD sized pieces. Great Climb.

By Alexander Nees
From: Grand Junction, CO
Mar 9, 2011
rating: 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ E1 5a

For what it's worth, Generic Crack was rated 5.10- back in 1988 in Bjornstad's original "Desert Rock" guidebook. This was maybe the first published guide to the Creek (?), so the rating at least has some basis in history.

By Matt Hoffmann
From: Squamish
Apr 20, 2012

Fun route. Great hand jams for me the whole way (Yellow c4). Placed 7 yellows, 2 blues (pods) and 1 red at the start.

Overall I think this is a great route to do if it's your first time in the creek, there are 2 great rests on a long route. Gives you plenty of time to get uses to how the jams feel there. Super fun jamming!

We rapped with a 70.

By Matt E
From: Lander, WY
Jan 2, 2014

Be sure to tie a knot on the end of your rope here -- watched a climber take a fall after being lowered off his rope back in November. Like others have said, you can walk up and right as the belayer to get your climber back on the ground.

We climbed it happily with a 70m.