Home - Destinations - iPhone/Android - Partners - Forum - Photos - Deals - What's New
Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Hillbilly Routes
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
5.6 dihedral 
Barnyard 
Bio-Degradable 
Booze Pigs 
Cascadia 
Curse of the Drill 
Drink to Puke 
End of the Innocence 
End of the Innocence variation 
Generation Gap 
Her Spidery Chamber 
High School Romancer 
Left Side Dihedral (aka Corner Crack) 
Manic Depression 
No Time to Linger  
Organic Matter 
Pagan Rituals 
Penitent Crack 
Pine Tree Crack 
PWB Arete 
Repentance Crack, The 
Sex Weed 
Sunset Ascent 
Swiss Cheese 
Turkish Revenge 
Two Hands of Prayer 
Zig-zag crack 
Zschiesche toprope problem 
Unsorted Routes:

Generation Gap 

YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a

   
Type:  Sport
Consensus:  YDS: 5.12a French: 7a+ Ewbanks: 25 UIAA: VIII+ British: E5 6a [details]
FA: Jay Knower, June 2007
New Route: Yes
Season: Without cheater stones: 12a. With cheater stones: 11b.
Page Views: 1,977
Submitted By: Jay Knower on Jun 21, 2007
Good Page? 0 people like this page. Your opinion:   

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Kayte Decker working Generation Gap. Belayed By J...

Description 

Generation Gap climbs the blunt arete just left of Swiss Cheese. The route offers a very powerful, bouldery start to progressively easier climbing. Stick clip the first bolt.

Begin "The Gap" by matching the patina edge/feature on the wall above the drop-off. Shorter climbers may have to stack some stones to reach this hold (stacking too many stones might negate the crux, however). Do a pull-up to place a foot on the wall and make powerful moves up to the second bolt. After a couple of pesky hard moves near the third bolt, romp up the less-steep arete to the top. Top out on the ledge and traverse a few feet right to the chains on Swiss Cheese.


Protection 

Five bolts. Stick clipping the first bolt is mandatory.



Photos of Generation Gap Slideshow Add Photo
Jay Knower on his new route Generation Gap.  Photo By Kayte Decker.
Jay Knower on his new route Generation Gap. Photo...
Flunky.
Flunky.
Jay Knower almost through the business on Generation Gap.  Photo by Kayte Decker.
Jay Knower almost through the business on Generati...
New Wisco Crew, John Flunker.
New Wisco Crew, John Flunker.
Matt high up on Generation Gap.  Great route!
Matt high up on Generation Gap. Great route!
Flunky in crux.
Flunky in crux.
Comments on Generation Gap Add Comment
Show which comments
Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated Apr 1, 2012
By JJ Schlick
Administrator
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Jun 22, 2007

Jay- I was looking at this line last summer. Had I been around long enough... Nice to see some new stuff going in. JJ

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Jun 25, 2007

Thanks guys. Congrats, Jason, on the quick 2nd ascent.

By Dobbe
Sep 10, 2007

If you stick clip the second bolt on the route you won't get clipped by the roof. Fun route, I just keep seeing people get banged up when they miss the first move.

By waxisgood
From: Milwaukee, WI
Oct 9, 2007
rating: 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII E4 6a

I really like this route but I feel it does not live up to its 5.12 rating when comparing it to pagan rituals and other climbs at the hollow. Once you have a feeling for the first move there are really no struggles.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 19, 2008
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

waxisgood,

Just because you figured out the crux move and you are comfortable pulling it, doesn't mean you have to downgrade the climb. That could be said for any climb you figure out. Once you have a feeling for it, there are no struggles.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
Aug 29, 2008

I was at the Hillbilly this summer and I saw that there was a three foot stack of cheater stones at the base of this route. I am not a purist or anything (ask anyone), but by stacking stones up to start the route, the crux becomes very different. I always thought that the crux was pulling up off the patina edge and getting both feet on the wall. With the stones, the pull-up isn't needed. I don't care if you use cheater stones, but please be aware that the given grade refers to a stone-less ascent.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 15, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

The stones were back yesterday. So I knocked them back down. They even had some glue on them to try to keep them together. What a joke. I keep having my buddies tell me how easy a 12 this is. Except they all used the cheater stones, which allow you to put one foot up before you leave the ground, changing the crux completely. You are supposed to hang off the start holds and bring yourself off the ground, not step on the stones to bring yourself off the ground. There are a handful of people that think they got this route done, but they need to go back and do it the right way.

By Jay Knower
Administrator
From: Plymouth, NH
May 15, 2009

I'd say this feels mid 5.11 if you take away the bottom pull-up. Still a fun route, but not 5.12.

If everyone wants the stones up, that's fine with me. I'll just change the grade. No biggie.

By John W. Knoernschild
From: Wisconsin
May 26, 2009
rating: 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ E5 6a

Alright, so cheaters stones or not, my buddy still hiked this thing. But he's done it a few times. I got on it and I couldn't stick the first move. I kept sliding out of the pocket above. But I did pull the rest of the climb. Fun climb too. Lots of cool features. Like small pockets in the face above the first move. Sweet.

By Tradoholic
Aug 12, 2009

I hate when the crux is the first moves. It feels like I'm the fat kid who is forced to start the race in the back of the pack.
I think I would have had a better day if I had just stacked up a few stones and sent a 11b instead of trying to caress my ego with a 5.12. To each his own.

By J.Flunker
Sep 15, 2010

Solid 12a, 2-3 move (depending on sequence) boulder problem equals grabbing the crimps and pulling.

By ferrells
From: Minneapolis, MN
Apr 1, 2012

Oooh, controversy! Good route, although it could use a spring cleaning. 12a if you grab the patina at full extension. Indeed, skipping that would undermine the difficulty considerably.