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The Sports Wall
Routes Sorted
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Balkan Dirt Diving T,S 
Coffin Crack T,TR 
Don't Go Chasing Waterfalls S 
Generation Gap S 
My Generation S 
Pet Semetary T,S 
Rufus' Roof Variation T 

Generation Gap 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Ken Trout, 1992
Page Views: 1,051
Submitted By: Richard M. Wright on May 3, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (35)
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Temporary closures near Fiscal Cliff: May-July 2014 MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Ex-warm-up, now a nice 5.11 clip up in its own right, Generation Gap is the left of the three main bolted lines on The Sports Wall. A thin seam leads the way immediately to the crux at 5.11a and the first clip. The route settles down after the initial difficulty to some fine 5.10 face climbing. It gets two stars for the fine quality rock, nice continuity at 5.10, and the occasionally devious move. It is a good, sunny spot in the early afternoon.


Protection 

QDs only. This 70 foot line needs 8 - 9 draws and something for the double bolt anchor at the top.



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By Joshua Lewis
Apr 9, 2002

Pumpfest with a capital P! Steep, balancey moves throughout. I was expecting one 11a move, followed by a 10a climb--wrong. Great line, for sure; challenging from start to finish.

By Brett Boyd
From: Westminster, CO
Apr 9, 2002

I think it is 10a after the initial moves. The moves just aren't obvious the first time that you do it.

By tobias
From: CO
Jan 1, 2003

Good sunny spot in late afternoon as well.... A fun climb, turns out left after the third bolt, then back right after the fourth.

By Andy Mauk
Jul 10, 2003

It feels 11a if you don't know the beta, but I think if you know the beta it is really like 10c/d. Great route!!

By chris deulen
From: Merriam, Kansas
Sep 25, 2004
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Every climb in the world seems easier than it is if you know the beta, you moron.

By Darren Mabe
From: Flagstaff, AZ
Aug 24, 2008

8/24/08: added a new bolt w/ring to back up the two rusty cold shuts. New bolt is triplex and all stainless hardware.

By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Jan 25, 2009
rating: 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b

The initial move is a little balancy/pumpy; follow the arrow and start left with the rope on your left side to prevent entanglement.

By slim
Administrator
Jul 18, 2011
rating: 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c

Pretty good route. Kind of in your face at the start. When I did it, it was absolutely soaked which made it feel pretty desperate. There are a couple seams that were seeping some fairly wide swaths down the face, right over the feet I wanted to use. Then, of course, I endured the obligatory rain shower dousing.

The top is really cool - it seems like there is an unconformity and the gneiss becomes basalt that is similar to North Table Mountain. Pretty weird.