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Traveling Carabiner

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By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Sep 5, 2008
!

The carabiner begins its travels. Summer in Red Rock limits the climbing options a bit. Early mornings. Late afternoons. Selected north-facing, shady walls. I had an e-mail from Dan the Air Force Guy that he would be visiting Nellis AFB and hoped to get in a little climbing. Time was limited on his schedule, but that worked out well for the early morning option. At sunup we were walking up the hill to Physical Graffiti.

Physical Graffiti is a great route. Easy enough (5.6) to be fun, but interesting enough that you have to pay attention. Placed a good hex on the first pitch and clipped in with the traveling oval to begin its journey.

Looking down the first pitch of Physical Graffiti, past the traveling carabiner.


Dan came up. Even though we were in the August sunshine, the early hour kept the climbing cool enough.
Dan climbs the first pitch of Physical Graffiti.


Bonus on the second pitch-- the traveling carabiner gets used again on a perfect hex placement.
Bonus on the second pitch-- the traveling carabiner gets used again on a perfect hex placement.


A few fourth class moves lead to the walk-off.
A few fourth class moves lead to the walk-off.


Back on the ground before the heat sets in. Dan's shirt translates to: "A firm resolve is not easily weakened."
Back on the ground.  The carabiner is off to Colorado.  (p.s. the shirt translates as: "A firm resolve is not easily weakened.")


Employing the simple technique of procrastination, the carabiner made a journey up Community Pillar before shipment on to Colorado.
The traveling carabiner makes a brief stop on the Community Pillar.


So the itinerary to date is:

By Robert 560
From Ogden, Utah
Sep 5, 2008
Go ahead make my day

Thanks Larry!!!!! Great trip report. Awesome pictures. I've only been to Red Rocks once and that was about 20 years ago. I think after seeing your TR I might have to make the road trip this fall. Thanks for getting the game started. Lets keep it going.

By tooTALLtim
From Boulder, CO
Sep 5, 2008
Taking a break at Lost Lake below Half Dome.

Like the trip report! I wish there were more here...maybe I'll put one up...

By Jon Cheifitz
From Louisville, Colorado
Sep 5, 2008

Can you put me on the list? Jon in Boulder.. Ill take it out ice climbing by the time i get it.

By Bill Hutchins
From Bethesda, MD
Sep 5, 2008

This is such a great idea. I can't wait to read about the further adventures of the Traveling 'Biner.

By Robert 560
From Ogden, Utah
Sep 5, 2008
Go ahead make my day

If anyone would like to get on the list follow this link.
http://www.mountainproject.com/v/general_climbing/wanna_play>>>>>
I will go through this weekend and revise the list. Lets all have fun!!!

Robert

By Adam Berger
From Denver, CO
Nov 10, 2008
Rebuffat's Arete on Rewritten

On Thursday November 6th I was the lucky recipient of the traveling carabiner. Shawn Mitchell was kind enough to pass it on at the MP gathering at SOBO 151. Speaking of which, I don’t see a TR from any of you slackers before me on the list, except for Larry.

Enough of that jazz; you guys want to hear about climbing, right?

On Saturday November 8th I spent the afternoon at Eldo with Kim. My fiancé told me to get out of the house so she could get some school work done so I didn’t ask any questions and went to look for a partner. It was a little last minute, but my good buddy Tim Stich hooked me up with a new friend of his who was looking for a partner. She had never been to Eldo, and really only climbed sport, so I figured I’d take her up a few easy classics. We didn’t get started all that early, but did have time to get a few routes in.

We started on Wind Ridge. I did the first 2 pitches as one, because it was fairly cold and windy so I figured one belay was better than two. Here’s Kim on her way up to the ledge.


For some reason I was all about taking photos through the traveling carabiner that day.


Here’s a nice shot of the bastille, through the biner.


After walking back to our packs, thankfully without any new holes from the critters, we headed over to do Calypso. We had to wait a bit to get started as there were some folks ahead of us. Once they headed up the 2nd pitch I got started leading the first pitch. Here’s a shot from the anchors looking down.

A shot of the TC holding onto my rack at 1st pitch belay.


There was a guy from the USGS asking questions about whether or not people would pay to enter state parks because of the current economy. I didn’t talk with him but he took some nice photos of Kim.

Kim belaying at the start of Calypso. He’s shooting from behind the boulder.


Here’s Kim just starting the climb.


And here’s Kim on her way around the roof, and up to the belay.


The start of the 2nd pitch has a few fun moves and then it’s an easy run up to the 2nd pitch belay. Here’s my 2nd pitch belay – there’s a great hole that takes a #7 Powercam perfectly. Of course, the TC helping out along the way. We walked off after that.


We called it a day after that. It was getting dark and I knew tomorrow would be a full day with Tim Stich down at Turkey Rocks.

Tim and I met up Sunday morning in Colorado Springs. It was pretty cold out but the skies were clear and it looked like it would be a nice day. The TC made a quick guest appearance as I packed up my gear

We geared up and got ready to do Nighttime Madness (5.7). We thought we were doing the Chopping Block (5.8) but after looking over the orange Trout guide it looks like we did do Nighttime Madness.

Here’s me starting the first pitch. There are dual cracks at the start, I had some trouble warming up but then cruised to the top.


I brought Tim up and we exchanged gear so he could start the next pitch.


Here’s Tim on the 2nd pitch. He spent some time trying to booty a fixed BD .75 but gave up after trying with both nut tools. This pitch is fairly wide but there are a lot of face features to use.


Tim brought me up and I started the 3rd pitch. I found it fairly sustained at the start, especially getting up into the wide crack. My gear kept getting stuck on the various flakes but I struggled my way up. I got up on a large fang and saw a wide chimney up above. I decided that since I used most of my big gear I’d give Tim the chimney pitch. This is looking down at the belay.


Here’s Tim in the wide chimney.


And finally up on top, enjoying the views.




We walked off the top and decided to finish up on some single pitch routes. Tim led Jump Start (5.9) to a set of rap anchors.


And I followed


Then we top roped Vanishing Point (5.10d). It’s the thin crack to the right of the rope. Tim cruised it; I hang dogged my way up to get our draws. I was beat at that point.


Overall, it was a great day, and a great weekend at the crag. The traveling carabiner saw some more mileage and is ready for its next ride.

One last photo, my dog wanted to get in on the action.


Thanks for reading

Adam

By Robert 560
From Ogden, Utah
Nov 10, 2008
Go ahead make my day

Adam, THANKS!!! for the great TR. I hope some of the others post up as well.

By Doug Hemken
From Madison, WI
Nov 11, 2008
At the crux of McCarthy West Face var.<br /><br />Photo by Jon Jugenheimer

Nice! Kind of a chain letter gone wrong, but ....

Bonus points for actually *using* the carabiner, otherwise this is too much like geo-caching.

Put me on the list?

By Kateri Ahrendt
From Boulder, CO
Nov 11, 2008
Steamboat Springs, CO.

The photo of your dog with the carabiner is great.

By Larry DeAngelo
Administrator
Nov 11, 2008
!

Adam Berger wrote:
... Speaking of which, I don’t see a TR from any of you slackers before me on the list,...

Yeah, slackers, get in the spirit here!

By kirra
Nov 11, 2008
get gassed Rifle, CO

ditto on the doggie photo..!!

I didn't realize this hand-off was takin place at Sobo... we should have taken pics of the biner with a pint

By Tracy Roach
From Littleton
Nov 11, 2008
I'm so glad he spelled it right.

What a great idea! Adam I wondered what Tim was talking about when he said you were the recipient of the traveling caribiner. Now I know. I hope to see more stories and photos. Lucky biner. I hope I can travel as much as you!

By Tom Hanson
From Castle Rock, CO
Nov 11, 2008
A typical summer day at The Wood

Now I know the travelling 'biner graced the great climbing Mecca of Castlewood too.
Where are the pics?

By Shawn Mitchell
From Broomfield
Nov 11, 2008

Tom Hanson wrote:
Now I know the travelling 'biner graced the great climbing Mecca of Castlewood too. Where are the pics?

Coming shortly, Tom. I've been distracted. :) Maybe I'll see you Saturday.

By Ryan Brough
From Arvada, Colorado
Nov 11, 2008
Chickenhead surfing at the beginning of S-Direct.

Shawn Mitchell wrote:
Coming shortly, Tom. I've been distracted. :) Maybe I'll see you Saturday.

Busily appropriating funds to the state parks we climb in, no doubt...

By Tim Stich
From Colorado Springs, Colorado
Nov 12, 2008
Looking down from Notchtop

I was thinking it would be cool to see a Potrero Chico Traveling Carabiner Trip Report. We could either pass it off to someone going from here or I could mail it to friends in Austin that go most every weekend. Kind of get you in the mood to chase the heat instead of submitting to the will of Winter.

By Drew Gibson
From Frisco, CO
Nov 12, 2008

Sign me up!

By Simon King
Nov 12, 2008

Cool idea! Absolutely put me on the list. Pity I can't get it for December as I will be going to Crimea for some winter climbing. I bet the TC would love the girls there...

By Justin Cantrall
From Boulder, CO
Nov 12, 2008
Look Mom... no hands!<br />Photo: James Beissel

Nice trip report! Makes me want to go climb some stuff... imagine that.

I wish I was planning on some cool trips or I'd get on the list. Maybe I can talk some people into another Creekend (just got back)...

Planning is so much work.


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