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Ten climbs for 2008...

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By John Langston
Dec 12, 2007

More seriously, I don't have lists of climbs to do this year. Partners, fitness, finance, and time off all play such a big role.

-I'd like to finally finish my OW proj in the splatte. I pulled the moves clean last time, it just needs a send. It's hard to talk anyone into going there though as there's not much around.

-Moonlight Buttress, maybe if I'm feeling strong. Kinda saving it for an onsight though.

-Bellyfull, cause I'm sick of one-falling the thing

-Romantic Warrior, I'm not even sure I'll be in California this year though

-Trench Warfare, climbing 4 feet from the end isn't a send.


I have an idea of the types of routes and at what grade I'd like to be climbing. I don't have many specific routes pinned down though.

By Tony Bubb
From Boulder, CO
Dec 12, 2007
Nick Walker, Eric Pinkston, and Tony Bubb climb on the Purdue Campus. Photo taken by a cop, 1992.  No joke.

A discussion somewhat related, that if fuitive, might give people some ideas fortheir future lists here...

http://www.mountainproject.com/v/general_climbing/ten_climbs>>>>>

By Jason Kaplan
From Evergreen Co
Dec 12, 2007
avitar pic<br />

hey mark let me know when you go to ocelot!

my list:
Center Route S.Platte
Better Lock Next Time S.Platte
Quivering Quill S.Platte
Darkness Till Dawn Eldo
Handcracker Direct Eldo
Northcutt Start Eldo
S face or SW corner RMNP (petit)
Cattle Route RMNP (diamond)
Sykes Sickle RMNP(spearhead)
Long John Wall 2 Green Spur 2 Rewritten 2 Gambit Eldo Link-up

That's only a small fraction of the real tick list. It would also be sick to go to the black canyon for the first time next year.

By shear
Dec 12, 2007

Butt Bongo - Rumney, NH
Tunnel Vision - WMass
(Project) - WMass
rad routes in the RRG
Diahtribe - WMass
Predator - Rumney, NH




Thats only 6. But if I send these projects I will be very psyched.

By Jim Amidon
Dec 13, 2007
What ??

1st route "wake up"

2nd route, shut off the alarm

3rd, actually get out of bed

4th, make coffee

5th shower

6th see if partner shows up before sunrise

7th get in the car

8th get to parking lot and decide if we leave the car

9th hike to climb

10th actually get on the route and send

By Tavis Ricksecker
From flagstaff, az
Dec 13, 2007
Wednesday night, performing at the Lady Sassafras art car while DJ Treavor of Moontribe lays down some crunchy techno

#10. Anorexic, Priest Draw
#9. Disco Diva, Happy Boulders
#8. The Energizer, Le Petit Verdon
#7. The High Life, Jack's Canyon
#6. Clean and Jerk, Joshua Tree
#5. Rock Lobster, Indian Creek
#4. Three Turkeys, Paradise Forks
#3. Warpaint, Cochise Stronghold
#2. Casual Route, Long's Peak
#1. The Mithral Dihedral, Mount Russell

By Deaun Schovajsa
From Arvada, CO
Dec 13, 2007
Deaun tasting the sweet limestone

Heinous Cling (12a pitch only)- I keep falling and can't link it. I first spied it in 1995, then tried it on a trip to Smith in 2003, then got on it again when I was there for a long weekend in October of this year.
Instead of 10 climbs next year, my project is 1 climb in 10 (or more) years! I may have to move to Smith Rock and beat the route into complete submission...

By Christopher Jones
From Bailey, Colorado
Dec 14, 2007
Dagan enjoying some air.

1. Laughing Stock, S. Platte
2. Showcase, S. Platte
3. Throne Room, S. Platte
4. Weasels Ripped My Flesh, S. Platte
5. Yellow Spur, Eldo
6. Rigid Designator, Vail Ice
7. Main Street, Vedauwoo
8. Coffee Grinder, Vedauwoo
9. Epinephrine, Red Rocks
10. Black Dagger, The Diamond

By Mark Nelson
From Coniferous, CO
Dec 14, 2007
 In a zoo in California, a mother tiger gave birth to a rare set of triplet tiger cubs.    Unfortunately, due to complications in the pregnancy, the cubs were born prematurely and due to their tiny size, they died shortly after birth. <br /><br />The mother tiger after recovering from the delivery, suddenly started to decline in health, although physically she was fine. The veterinarians felt that the loss of her litter had caused the tigress to fall into a depression. The doctors decided that if the tigress could surrogate another mother's cubs, perhaps she would improve. <br /><br />After checking with many other zoos across the country, the depressing news was that there were no tiger cubs of the right age to introduce to the mourning  mother. The veterinarians decided to try something that had never been  tried in a zoo environment. Sometimes a mother of one species will take on the care of a different species. The only "orphans" that could be found quickly, were a litter of weaner pigs.  The zoo keepers and vets wrapped the piglets in tiger skin and placed the babies around the mother tiger.<br />

Damn you, Amidon! I can't get past the fourth step.

You & that f'n Green Spur can shovel sh.. SUGAR COOKIES!!

By Fat Dad
From Los Angeles, CA
Dec 14, 2007

OK, most of your 2008 lists look like life lists to me. Don't you guys have jobs? Never mind, I get it...you're not married.

By Ryan Palo
From lake osweso, oregon
Dec 14, 2007
First crux on the Quickening

Black Dyke - Squamish
Scarface - Smith
Rat Cave Project
Dark Tower - Broughtons Bluff
Lucky Pigeon - Smith
Double Stain (placing gear) - Smith
villain - Smith
Salathe
Apocalypse '91
Something in the Motherload!

By John Langston
Dec 14, 2007

Fat Dad wrote:
OK, most of your 2008 lists look like life lists to me. Don't you guys have jobs? Never mind, I get it...you're not married.


Well, I only work a few nights a week so I've got a lot of free time to climb. And I'm single.

No-one ever said that being able to tick off a bunch of cool climbs in a year made you a better man....I think it's implied.

Kidding!!

By JacobD
From McCall, ID
Dec 14, 2007
Working on offwidth/squeeze chimney boulder problem outside of McCall, Idaho.

Epinephrine - Red Rocks
Triassic Sands - Red Rocks
Outerspace - Leavenworth, WA
Northeast Face - Pingora Peak, wind rivers, WY
Northeast Ridge - Bugaboo Spire, Bugaboos, Canada
Direct Petzoldt Ridge - Grand Teton, WY
Donini's Crack - City of Rocks, ID
MRC Direct - Vedauwoo, WY
Mountaineers Route - Elephant Perch, Sawtooths, ID
Casual Route - The Diamond, CO

Probably more of a life list than one for 2008, but hey it's worth a try.

By Christopher Jones
From Bailey, Colorado
Dec 15, 2007
Dagan enjoying some air.

Hey man, only one of my routes is harder than 10d. I work full time and have a two year old son and another on the way.

By Mark Hammond
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Dec 15, 2007

Well, with my lack of free time this may not be a 1 year list. But what the hell, I might as well dream big.

Shunes Buttress-Zion
Stoned Oven-The Black
Grand Wall-Squamish
Astroman
Infrared-Big Bend Butte, UT
Medicine Man-CO Nat. Monument
October Light-Veedawoo
Mississippi 1/2 Step-S. Platte
Spear Me the Details-RMNP
Positive Vibrations-Sierras
Tippin the Bottle-Swell, UT

By Mark Hammond
From Eldorado Springs, CO
Dec 19, 2007

BUMP

By brent armstrong
From Closer to RR than the Strip
Dec 23, 2007

A dream year...
Serpent, Painted Wall, CO
Mescalito in a push
North howser Tower
Polar Circus solo, fuq it, lets go Slipstream
Mt Wilson, Rainbow, Black Velvet linkup

That would be enough...lol

Cerro Torre via any route
Moonflower Buttress, AK
Mt. Blanc du Tacul Triangle, Cosmique Arete w/ my Ms. Stacey
Chacaraju

Sounding more like a good decade now...

Mt. Johnson w/ the Ry Guy

By John Hegyes
From Las Vegas, NV
Dec 23, 2007
Jonny Crane

NE Face, Pingora, Wind River Range
The Yellow Spur, Redgarden Wall, Eldorado Canyon
Pear Buttress, The Book, Lumpy Ridge
Culp-Bossier, Hallet Peak, Rocky Mountain National Park
East Buttress, Mount Whitney
Open Book, Tahquitz Rock
Walk on the Wild Side, Saddle Rocks, Joshua Tree
Epinephrine, Red Rock
Chuckawalla 21, Red Rock
Chicken Lips, Red Rock

Only 75 pitches or so... I'm getting tired just thinking about it!

By Majid
Dec 27, 2007

Broad Peak , Trango Tower or some unknown peak in Himalays for 2008.

Totally comfused and not sure what to do

By Peter Spindloe
Administrator
From North Vancouver, BC
Dec 28, 2007
Starting the fourth class downclimb.  Photo by Ted. August 2007.

My list is mostly local since I don't anticipate much road-tripping in 2008. It's also ambitious, for me, as such lists should be.

10. Ultimate Linkup - this is essentially the Ultimate Everything route on The Chief, but with extra pitches at the bottom and top making for an amazing 24 pitches of 5.9 (with an optional 11b variation near the end).
9. Borderline to Angel's Crest - this link-up is good training for Freeway, I'm told (for the long-day endurance, not actual technical difficulty).
8. Alaska Highway (north walls of The Chief) - this thing sounds sick, but it also sounds like a great goal.
7. The Incredible Journey - For a good sport project
6. Black Water - For need another good sport project
5. Flight of the Challenger (at Nightmare Rock) - just in case those other two projects are successful
4. Crime Of The Century - still need the redpoint.
3. The Roman Chimneys - the proper way to finish off The Grand Wall, and essential for working towards the ultimate way to do the Grand Wall: start with Cruel Shoes to the Split Pillar, and the Roman Chimneys rather than escaping via Bellygood Ledge.
2. North East Buttress of Mt. Slesse.
1. Freeway - may have to do the Lite version first and then go back for the full, but whichever way, this is the route that motivates my training.

By jfox
From Black Hawk, CO
Dec 28, 2007
God I miss the '80's!!!

1. Martha (Mt. Lady Washington)
2. Dialogue on Zen (Long's)
3. Ellingwood Ledges (Crestone Needle)
4. Direct Exum (Grand Teton)
5. Pingora, NE Face (Pingora)
6. Dogstar (McHenry's)
7. Warbonnet Ridge (Chief's Head)
8. Kieners (Long's)
9. Month too Late (Wheeler)
10. Black Dike (Middle Teton)

By Ben Lyon
From Birmingham, AL
Dec 28, 2007
Post climb snack...<br /><br />If you were wondering, the guy is Strappo (could be my long lost brother according to one of my climbing partners), a famous British climber and madman. <br /><br />The photo was taken in the Yosemite Lodge parking lot in 1982. Russ Walling took the photo. Strappo provided the bread.....

1. The Original Route, Whitesides, NC
2-9. Everything at Laurel Knob, NC 5.10 and under for which I have topos
10. Punk Wave, Tallulah Gorge, GA

General climbing goal: onsite 75% + 5.10 in the TAG and NC areas...gas prices are rising...oh, the humanity!!

By David Shiembob
From slc, ut
Dec 29, 2007

Wow, this is great to get me thinking about what I want to do next year, I really need to come up with more goals...

Two long red rocks routes that have been on my mind -

Woman of Mountain Dreams on Mt. Wilson
Levitation 29 (of course)

Sporto limestone for sure, but I really don't have anything in particular in mind, I just love going to new limestone crags. Maybe Piston Bully up at chadbourne for a summer project.

I've gotta come up with some more long trad routes, but I kind of lost my balls this summer and started sport climbing more after a couple scary situations. So I've got to get back in the sketchy awkward trad saddle somehow. If I get back to Squamish, Freeway would definitely top this list!

By RedRockRat
From Las Vegas
Dec 29, 2007

1.climb
2.climb
3.climb hard
4.climb harder
5.climb hardest
6.beers
7.pizza
8.climb
9.climb
10.climb

By Ladd Raine
Administrator
From Plymouth, NH
Aug 30, 2008
Waiting for lift-off, Thin Air(5.6) Cathedral Ledge, NH

Ladd Raine wrote:
Technosurfing , Rumney-ticked Flesh For Lulu , Rumney-ticked Luau , Rumney-been too wet Camber , Cathedral Ledge Airation , Cathedral Ledge The Prow , Cathedral Ledge Eyeless in Gaza , Sundown Ledge Big Red , Wild River Whitney Gilman Ridge , Cannon Cliff Moby Grape , Cannon-ticked Cliff


How is everyone else coming along on their lists?


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