General Solo Aid

As a disclaimer I'm not going out do do this. I'm just curious and want to understand a little more on the logistics and techniques one uses to do a big wall solo. I've done a lot of TR solo aid and that makes since. How do people do solo aid? Specifically using bolted anchors on routes like the Nose? How about speed ascents free climbing? I was watching "Race for the Nose" and saw that while the second was jugging the leader was already off and climbing, fast. What setups are they using for self belay?

Wilson On The Drums wrote:As a disclaimer I'm not going out do do this. I'm just curious and want to understand a little more on the logistics and techniques one uses to do a big wall solo. I've done a lot of TR solo aid and that makes since. How do people do solo aid? Specifically using bolted anchors on routes like the Nose? How about speed ascents free climbing? I was watching "Race for the Nose" and saw that while the second was jugging the leader was already off and climbing, fast. What setups are they using for self belay?

You first need to make a multi directional anchor, which is easy of you have bolts, like on the nose...

Type in how to short fix on big walls or something on YouTube and Chris macnamera has a good video on that... Seems most people use gri gri but the other top winner seems to be the silent partner...

There is already tons of the soloing stuff on the internet... Between supertopo website and google you will be able to find plenty.. Check out people's solo trip reports on supertopo, they often take pics of their set up!

Here is that video on how to short fix..

http://m.youtube.com/watch?v=e7hUDlFv-EE