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General Patton's Arete 

Hueco: V3 Font: 6A PG13

   
Type:  Boulder, 25'
Consensus:  Hueco: V2 Font: 5+ [details]
FA: Troob
Page Views: 824
Submitted By: Jeffrey LeCours on Jul 12, 2011

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Lily heading up the fun arete

Description 

Start up the left angling arete on the nice right edge. After you're halfway there, you can reach around the corner and finish up on the the low angle face or continue working up the arete proper, gaining the obvious finishing horn and topping out.

The down climb on the opposite, back corner of the boulder might be a little scary for some. It's down low angle face with crimps and left hand side pulls galore. I figure I'd mention it for anyone who may be nervous.

If I screwed up the route name, let me know and I'll update it. New England Bouldering calls this V3.


Location 

Follow the hiking path just north of Nemesis. Scramble up some rocks, passing the ledge where Around the Outside and Upstairs Downstairs is. Just above those two climbs is the large boulder this route lives on. Walk around to the back until you see the beautiful, obvious arete.


Protection 

A pad would be enough, but two would be nicer. Attentive spotter to keep the climber from landing on the sloping rock behind.



Comments on General Patton's Arete Add Comment
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By bill patton
Aug 13, 2012
rating: V4- 6B R

no way this thing is V1. I think V4 is closer - but maybe that is just fear talking. The down is tricky- head off the back side and then down.
Can't remember who the fa was by - not me though.

By rogerk
Aug 13, 2012

Bill,
IIRC, Troob got the first ascent, and named it in your honor because you showed it to him.

By Chris Duca
Administrator
From: Havertown, PA
Aug 13, 2012

Bill, great to see you snooping around here finally! Do you recall the face immediately to the left of this? Pat Tracey, you and I were working on it some years ago, but to my knowledge no one sent. Has it since been sent? If so, it would be a SCREAMING highball!

By Christian Prellwitz
From: Telluride, CO
Sep 12, 2012

Hopefully Bill will shed some more light on the exact details, but Bill told me that the line directly to the left (and over the heinous landing) goes at about v7, but that to his knowledge it had only been toproped.

Further left is another highball that begins as a sit start that goes at about v4. There might be another line left of this as well. If I get back up there at some point soon, I'll try to get some pics and details.

By Jeffrey LeCours
From: New Hampshire
Oct 9, 2013

I updated this to show the grade given by the New England Bouldering guidebook... but I personally think it was light. To each their own. :) I've also updated the first ascensionist.