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General Hospital
5.9 YDS 5c French 17 Ewbanks VI UIAA 17 ZA HVS 5a British PG13
Avg: 2 from 1 vote
Type: | Trad, 140 ft (42 m) |
FA: | Charles Cole & Randy Vogel 1/85 |
Page Views: | 934 total · 4/month |
Shared By: | Bo Johnston on Oct 18, 2006 |
Admins: | Greg Opland, C Miller, Gunkswest, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes |
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Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
This route is a bit serious for the 5.9 climber but well worth climbing if in the area. The start is hairy with little pro and extremely thin flakes for holds. Just after the start the pro comes around and the climbing is stiff at the grade but rewarding. The crux is just before the midway point up the left facing flake forcing the climber to smear left onto the face while working blind but positive jams upward. The top of the flake section of the climb can be protected with small cams in a solid hoizonal crack that traverses to the right facing Rope Opera. After that crack the flake get extremely thin again and scary. I was looking forward to lassoing the top flakes for pro, only to find that they could barely hold body weight. I choose not to lead the 60' of unprotected face above due to this and lowered very gingerly off the slung flakes with the hoizonal below for back up. We climbed "As the Crags Turn" after than and were able to lower down the route for my second to climb the entire route and clean. He decribed the face climbing as easy 5.6ish off the flake which joins a right moving dike past bolt anchors for "One Move Leads to Another".
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