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General Dynamics 

YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c

   
Type:  Trad, Sport, 30'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.11a French: 6c Ewbanks: 22 UIAA: VII+ ZA: 22 British: E3 5c [details]
FA: Galen Kirkwood, Bob Van Belle and Mike Paul in 1980
Page Views: 1,378
Submitted By: mschlocker on Sep 12, 2010

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (11)
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Oscar pulling hard on General Dynamics.

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Description 

A roof which requires quite a bit of power to pull through leads to a ledge, then more delicate moves up a flare.

Location 

At the top of the left climbers approach trail. The roof and 2 bolts make the location fairly obvious.

Protection 

1 smallish cam and 2 bolts, bolt anchor.


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By ron amick
From: poway, ca
Dec 9, 2011

FA was by Galen Kirkwood, Bob Van Belle and Mike Paul in 1980. I put in the bolts and did the first lead in 1980, 2 weeks after it was put up.
By T.J. Esposito
From: San Diego, CA
Jun 18, 2012

I've spent a reasonable amount of time on this can definitely say that this is a pretty awesome route. It's rather difficult in that figuring out the start (start of the business, not the scurrying-up-blocks part of the start) is really tricky to figure out. There are at least three variations that work, and so many chalked up holds that there might be more. Figuring out what's most efficient for you is key.

Moving past the roof is pretty strenuous and good technique actually helps to make it less burly than it initially seems. Fun relatively easy climbing (once you figure out a good sequence) past the second bold to the anchors.

Definitely preferable to do this on lead rather than TR to get the full experience! The falls are quite short once you've got the first bolt; the only downside is there's a lot of rope drag from the cam to the bolt unless you use a draw. However, using a draw or runner puts the rope in your way and makes the falls a bit longer.
By Coon
Jun 16, 2014

So you pulled the yoga heel hook that 2 weeks earlier seemed impossible, then just as you thought you'd found the one steep/powerful route at the Gorge, you get to the chains via smear on polished slab. Gotta love this place.

If you dont own or know how to use trad gear (like myself), just pre-clip the first bolt.