A devious line with thin holds, balancy moves, and a strenuous, iron cross-like move.
Start up on the smooth face below the small roof, working the small crimps, sidepulls and footholds. The second clip is balancy and a bit thought-provoking. Find a way to get past the roof, rest a bit, and then wonder where the holds went.
A bit of desperate arete-pinching later, come to a couple of (relatively) larger holds and figure out the next bulge problem. Finally, clip the last bolt and head for the anchors.
The bolted line to the left of the chimney (Barbie Twins) with the yellow triangle of rock. The first two bolts are on and just left of a thin face; the third is above a small roof.
5 bolts, ring anchors (shared with Barbie Twins to the right).
From: centerville, utah
Jul 22, 2009
rating: 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
This is a superb climb with very peculiar moves that is unlike other AF climbs. Take your time and you'll figure it out.
|By Christian "crisco" Burrell|
From: PG, Utah
Aug 29, 2009
Maybe I was doing it wrong...I don't remember doing an "Iron Cross" move...a bit slippery but great to work on! Once your feet are above the roof, the difficulty eases considerably. (I will admit, I did not redpoint this yet. I worked it for a while and was able to do almost all the moves)