Gemini Crack 5.8+
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| Type: | Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Jim McEver, David Broemel - 1973 |
| Submitted By: | saxfiend on Mar 31, 2007 |
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Danny seconds me on the excellent Gemini Crack.
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Description One of three routes starting from the Sentry Box Ledge, Gemini Crack is an excellent line with a thought-provoking but well-protected crux. Though officially it's a two-pitch climb, there's no good reason not to do it in one long pitch. Don't miss this classic if you're climbing the South Side.
P1 - Starting on the Sentry Ledge, climb a right-facing corner until you're just below a pair of left-angling vertical cracks on steeper ground. Move right to the cracks and follow them up and left (crux). When these cracks peter out, continue a short distance on easier terrain to a good horizontal gear belay (or to combine pitches, continue up to the anchors). 5.8, 100'
P2 - Continue up through eyebrows and some runout easier ground to the new ring anchors below the old Gemini rap tree. 5.6, 80'
Location Starts on the Sentry Box Ledge just left of Zodiac. An alleged 3rd class scramble (more of a 5.easy free solo) will get you to the ledge. Double-rope rap from new ring bolts just below the old belay tree gets you back to the Sentry Ledge, then a single-rope rap to the ground.
Protection Medium gear; cams, tricams and nuts.
Gemini rap anchors...from ccc website.
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wet day
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By saxfiend
Administrator
From: Decatur, GA
Apr 1, 2007
| Leading Gemini was the high point of my latest trip to Looking Glass. The twin cracks section is strenuous, but there's great pro and good stances to place gear when you need them. Combining pitches makes for a nice long climb and using double ropes makes things easier. |
By Rob Rives
Aug 6, 2010
| Really great route, good pro, and easily linked into a single pitch. I felt this was a hair easier than First Return. |
By Ryan Williams
Administrator
From: London (sort of)
Oct 27, 2011
rating: 5.8
| I think this is the easiest of the 5.8 ledge routes. Do in one pitch. |
By Jeff Edge
Mar 13, 2013
| Definitely gonna want two ropes to get down from this...thought we had a 70m, turns out it was 60...still not sure if 70 would get you down or not (I don't think so). But, on the bright side you can always downclimb the first 30m! (like we did, actually wasn't too hard and didn't take all that agonizingly long) |
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