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Geeking out on going light with trad.
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By JLP
From The Internet
Jan 10, 2013

Healyje wrote:
Be aware these are a consumable item with a 2-3 year life, don't keep climbing on them after year three like you might with a regular sling.

True, but it's more than that. If you weigh more than, say, 150 lbs with the rack in the OP and climb at a level where you take a lot of falls, those biners are likely to break quite often. The loads that gear will see outside are not like the loads they see in the lab where they rate them. If you weigh, say, over 180 or so, I'd say such ultralight gear is not a good idea for you.


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By Brassmonkey
Jan 10, 2013
Brass monkey

JLP wrote:
If you weigh, say, over 180 or so, I'd say such ultralight gear is not a good idea for you.


Hahahaha, is that on the warning label of said UL gear you've seen or in anything anywhere from any company?


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By robrobrobrob
Jan 10, 2013

JLP wrote:
True, but it's more than that. If you weigh more than, say, 150 lbs with the rack in the OP and climb at a level where you take a lot of falls, those biners are likely to break quite often. The loads that gear will see outside are not like the loads they see in the lab where they rate them. If you weigh, say, over 180 or so, I'd say such ultralight gear is not a good idea for you.



Why do you say this? The Camp Nano has a 20Kn rating with the gate closed. A 180 Pound climber, on a 60 meter rope, taking a fall 10 feet out from pro generates less than 10Kn on a STATIC rope... probably more like... what 5Kn or so on a dynamic rope. Make the climber 220, and 80 feet out from pro and you start seeing around 16kn with a static.

That's not to say their not fiddly.... or that you shouldn't replace the slings often...


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By Healyje
Jan 10, 2013
girl40

JLP wrote:
True, but it's more than that. If you weigh more than, say, 150 lbs with the rack in the OP and climb at a level where you take a lot of falls, those biners are likely to break quite often. The loads that gear will see outside are not like the loads they see in the lab where they rate them. If you weigh, say, over 180 or so, I'd say such ultralight gear is not a good idea for you.


I was commenting on the skinny slings rather than the biners. I had a few of my Mammut 8mm skinny dyneema slings tested each year for four years and they went from 22kn to 8-10kn dropping about 3kn per year. I discussed this with Mammut and they were emphatic they make those slings for going ultra-lite alpine, not for general trad use. They also emphasized the slings were a consumable item and not meant to be used year after year the way thicker nylon slings are.

As for small biners, I'd be curious as to your assertion they may break easier than 'regular' ones. The KN ratings for my Ange, Spirit, and Helium biners aren't that far off so I'm not sure I'm understanding the risk you are positing.


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By Rob Warden, Space Lizard
From Springdale Ut
Jan 10, 2013
blah

nylon slings are a better buy but were not talking best gear for the dollar... we talking the lowest weight and least durable . i like heilums a lot I have a double set. the Camp Photons are a nice racking biner, not the lightest in general, but at 29grams for full size I would recommend them over the nano or edelrid just because there's nothing more agravating than pumping out getting the clip because that stupid midget biner slid out of your hand twenty times


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By JLP
From The Internet
Jan 10, 2013

Calculate this for us: What kind of twisting load will it take? What happens when you clip a fixed mangle that doesn't load the biner like that 12mm dowel in the lab? Now what happens when you shock load the biner with all of these loads and more all at relatively the same instant? How about right after the gate either bounced or was pried open by a crystal of rock?

I only have rough guesses based on experience, but in general the more you weigh, the more you fall, the more metal you want in your biners.


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By robrobrobrob
Jan 10, 2013

JLP wrote:
Calculate this for us: What kind of twisting load will it take? What happens when you clip a fixed mangle that doesn't load the biner like that 12mm dowel in the lab? Now what happens when you shock load the biner with all of these loads and more all at relatively the same instant? How about right after the gate either bounced or was pried open by a crystal of rock? I only have rough guesses based on experience, but in general the more you weigh, the more you fall, the more metal you want in your biners.


Well.. when the biner is more than twice the estimated ratings in the lab.. it really doesn't worry me that much. Most real life falls actually result in less loading, because people slide on the rock, the other slings absorb energy, the belay slips, and.. yes.. people are squishier than static lead weights and some energy is lost there.

As for twisting.. crossloading your biner's not a good thing, maybe only use those on pretty clean routes.

My biggest issue with them is that they have less material, which means any wear by nicks, scratches, rope grooves... that will be amplified over time.

So.. people who weigh more need bigger biners.... that makes me smile.


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By Jim Titt
From Germany
Jan 10, 2013

Those of us who weigh over 200lbs like at least a decent open gate strength like 9kN, those 6kN things do nothing for my peace of mind!


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By JLP
From The Internet
Jan 10, 2013

Noobs should search the forums for broken biner stories (and accidents) before posting their opinions to this thread.


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By Chris Freye
From Seattle
Jan 10, 2013

I thought I would add my two cents...

Harness: Of all things you don't want to skimp on is the harness. Yes... lighter is better for most things but having an uncomfortable harness can be a pain in the a$$. I have a BD Aspect after switching from Arcteryx (superlight! but is only great for sport) but at a semi-hanging belay or even a slight amount of weight on the legs all day can be a pain (literally!).

I have the Mammut Contact 8mm Dynema Slings and they rock!

Cams: Metolius is typically lighter but BD C4s have the wider range. I think its a personal preference here. I'm a BD person since I think having wider range is better than saving a few grams.

Belay device: If your going to do multi-pitch, definitely get one which can be operated in guide-mode. I have an ATC guide but the Reverso is way lighter but I have heard that it wears through pretty fast.

Locking biners: I believe that the Wild Country Neon is the lightest.

Non-lockers: I like full size biners thus I have the BD Oz. Everyone I climb with comments on how light they are. Yes they are not as light as the Nanos but they are full size and the newer ones have the hoodwire feature so they don't catch on the slings.

Someone mentioned helmet.... GET ONE! If your doing multi-pitch you should always wear one! I'm not going to lecture because I think it is a personal preference but if do get on the lightest on the market is the Vector by BD. My friend has one and they are way sweet.


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By Mike Berkow
Jan 10, 2013

JLP wrote:
Noobs should search the forums for broken biner stories (and accidents) before posting their opinions to this thread.


So how does calling someone names help in your argument? Is it going to make him want to go and look up what you are suggesting he look up? Does it somehow make your argument anymore valid? Do you know for certain that the person the noob comment was directed at really is a noob? Is it possible that he has many years of experience? Even if he is a noob, is it possible that he still has a valid point to make?


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By JLP
From The Internet
Jan 10, 2013

Mike Berkow wrote:
Is it possible that he has many years of experience? Even if he is a noob, is it possible that he still has a valid point to make?

No, sorry, it really isn't possible in this case.


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By johnthethird
Jan 10, 2013

Oz biners are not full size.


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By JohnWesely
From Red River Gorge
Jan 10, 2013
Gunking

JLP wrote:
Noobs should search the forums for broken biner stories (and accidents) before posting their opinions to this thread.


The last one I remember reading was a Petzl Spirit


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By CJC
Jan 10, 2013

yergonnadie


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By Brassmonkey
Jan 10, 2013
Brass monkey

JLP wrote:
Noobs should search the forums for broken biner stories (and accidents) before posting their opinions to this thread.



Pot calling the kettle black?

Tell us how many of these stories you can find please. It does happen no doubt, but often due to extraneous cirumstances or user error. Find us stories that had nothing to do with these and are simply biners that failed due to the forces applied to it.

It is irresponsible to spray others with misinformation you concocted by yourself without scientific testing or data to back yourself up. That is more noob than someone not being arrogant and trying to learn about the actual forces and science invloved.

"Yo dude, guess what I heard..."
"No way!! I'm never doing _______ again"


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By TWK
Jan 10, 2013

Reading JLP's previous replies will convince you he's entitled to his own opinion and you're entitled to his opinion as well.
Basically a waste of binary input.


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By T.J. Esposito
From San Diego, CA
Jan 10, 2013
Espresso @ New Jack City

Lightest lockers: www.bogley.com/forum/showthread.php?62685-Lightest-Locking-C>>>

Top 10: (KL is keylock)
Trango Superfly - 41g - 24Kn
DMM Phantom KL - 41.5g - 23kN
CAMP Photon KL - 42g - 21kN
Kong Argon KL - 42g - 22kN
Austrialpin Micro Magic Screwlock - 42g - 22kN
Wild Country Neon KL - 42.5g - 24kN
Mad Rock SuperTech KL - 43g - 24kN
Edelrid Pure KL - 43g - 23kN
Metolius Bravo KL - 43.5g - 24kN
ClimbTech Superlight KL - 44g - 24kN


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By Ian Stewart
Jan 10, 2013

JLP wrote:
If you weigh more than, say, 150 lbs with the rack in the OP and climb at a level where you take a lot of falls, those biners are likely to break quite often. The loads that gear will see outside are not like the loads they see in the lab where they rate them. If you weigh, say, over 180 or so, I'd say such ultralight gear is not a good idea for you.


I'd like to know what your definition of "quite often" is. I think I've only seen a handful of carabiner failure stories, and as far as I remember they were all sport climbing situations where they got hung up weird on the hanger or something. I don't remember any of those failures being ultralight biners in trad situations. If you break a biner while trad climbing, the most likely reason is that you screwed up on your gear placement.

Of all the gear used when trad climbing, I'm least concerned about my biners. If you think biners fail "quite often", I wonder what term you'd use to quantitatively describe how often other pro fails to hold (which happens far more often than biners breaking).


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By JLP
From The Internet
Jan 10, 2013

lmgtfy.com/?q=broken+biner

These noob threads are the plague.


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By Khoi
From Vancouver, BC
Jan 10, 2013

Biners: Edelrid Nineteen-G (www.mec.ca will have them in stock in the spring)

Cams: Wild Country Zeros for the smallest sizes, then Metolius TCUs or Black Diamond X4s (once they come out in late spring), then Metolius Mastercams, then DMM Dragons for the bigger sizes, the Trango Big Bros for sizes beyond

Nuts: Those plastic nuts that Gear4Rocks make

Nut Tool: Metolius Feather

Belay Device: The Mammut Fuse is 41 grams

Locking Biner: The Grivel Plume is 37 grams.

Helmet: The Petzl Sirocco will be the lightest rock climbing helmet on the market once it comes out in the spring.


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By Will S
From Joshua Tree
Jan 10, 2013

JLP wrote:
lmgtfy.com/?q=broken+biner These noob threads are the plague.



"About 93,500 results (0.20 seconds)
Did you mean: broken boner "

LOLz.


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By Ian Stewart
Jan 10, 2013

JLP wrote:
lmgtfy.com/?q=broken+biner These noob threads are the plague.


I still prefer noobs to overwhelmingly false statements. If you want to provide a link, how about you give us one that backs up your claim that light biners break "quite often". Or perhaps one that disputes my assumption that most failures are due to incorrect use or freak accidents.

Here's a link where Kolin Powick, director of Global Quality for Black Diamond since 2002, says "Iíve seen and/or heard of only a handful of carabiners that have broken in the field in my time as Director of Global Quality at Black Diamond, and most have broken in the same way: nose hooked."

www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal///qc-lab-weaknes>>>

So the quality control director for the last 10+ years at BD says he only knows of a "handful" of failed biners, most of which failed due to incorrect use, or you have JLP, troll of MP since 2007, saying that they break "quite often" and that a 30lb climber weight difference could be to blame. Hmm....who should I believe!?!?


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By Sandy Crimp
Jan 10, 2013

Lightest Belay with Guide-Mode: Seems to be the Reverso-4 at 59 Grams.


Anyone ever use the Kong Ghost! 63-grams? It looks bomber!


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By Brassmonkey
Jan 10, 2013
Brass monkey

JLP wrote:
lmgtfy.com/?q=broken+biner These noob threads are the plague.



Alright you fucking wanker, I'm bored and can't climb due to an injury so here goes you slag:

Your Google list top 5.

1. This was an improperly rigged 50kn biner being used for tree cutting work where a large section of tree was being lowered with it. Do you know how much wood weighs? Its about as dense as your head.

2. A supertopo thread with a picture of the failed biner. It looks exactly like a nose hook failure. (that's called user error) Read:

www.blackdiamondequipment.com/en-us/journal/climb//qc-lab-we>>>

3. A supertopo thread about people who have broken biners in various ways, no pics, no explanations, just a few first but mostly secondhand stories. Most stated it was due to the gate opening. Not one was mentioned as a lightweight biner.

4. The exact url I just cited in #2, shit son.

5. rc.com thread about an extremely worn through biner that broke. Again...user error.

So what would a "noob" have learned from your post?

1. never use 50kn biners when climbing, they have been known to break!
2. never nose hook a biner
3. dont misuse biners or they will break, especially with gates open
4. Edumucate yourself my dear watson!
5. Never climb on biners worn all the the way through
6. If you googled broken biner, its highly probable you meant broken boner.

Hmmmm, where was all the info and threads about lightweight biners breaking "quite frequently"? It doesnt exist.

Bugger off.


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