Geek out, quick draw component discussion
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Not necessarily complete draws here, unless there is something you think does everything you want, just the components: |
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Cool thread! |
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Bill Kirby wrote:Cool thread! All ice season I use Camp Photon straight, key lock biners for ice screw side and Photon bent wire gate biners and Dynex slings and dog bones Rock season I use Petzl Ange QDs and Camp Orbit wires and misty Mountain nylon slings for trad draws.Come to think of it, I just climbed a bunch of sport with a guy who has CAMP draws. The Bolt side keylock was quite nice, but I still prefer wire gates for rope side. Also climbed with another partner who loved his DMM Alphas. I wasn;t used to the biner's shape and I had a terrible time clipping the rope end biners. |
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The only trouble with wire gate Photons is gate flutter. I wouldn't wanna fall on a Photon bent wire gate. That's why I only use Photons for racking biners and for ice climbing. |
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Wire gates are supposed to be less prone to flutter due to lower mass of the gate. (also depends on gate spring tension) |
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I'm a big fan of thick dogbones and keylocks for sport (who isn't?). Trango Reacts fill all my sport criteria for a good draw and are much cheaper than Spirits. |
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For sport, a thick dogbone (ex. Petzl express) in a few assorted lenghts, mainly short. With Wild Country Helium biners (red and silver) for hard and soft side. I like the biners, the don't get stuck on hangers, but have a better design (IMO) than the BD hoodwires, which have that extra wire component to break. |
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Trad draws: |
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I prefer keylock for both ends. Easier to unclip the rope when following or cleaning overhanging routes where it is easier to get the rope out first. |
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Sport draws:
Bolt end: Petzl Spirit straight gate (old version) Dogbone: Either Black Diamond Vari-width or Petzl Express Rope end: DMM Alpha Clip Trad draws: Gear end: Wild Country Helium Runner: Mammut Contact Sling Rope end: Wild Country Helium |
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For sport draws I use Wild Country Oxygen straight gates for the bolt, Wild Country Nitros for rope end and WC'd standard dogbone that comes with the Nitros. Or DMM Aero Straight Gate bolt end, Spectre 2 rope end with standard DMM dogbone from Spectre draws. |