Geek in the Creek 5.8
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| Type: | Sport, 1 pitch |
| Consensus: | 5.8 [details] |
| FA: | Keith Ainsworth, Dave Lindsey, Rick Leitner, 1999 |
| Submitted By: | Jeff Lockyer on Sep 18, 2001 |
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Ari cleaning the 'draws (from top rope) a few mov...
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Description This is located on "The Visor" just up the hill from Surprising Crag approximately 50 feet above Frictionary. This route is the furthest right bolted line on The Visor. Ascend an easy lower section reaching the upper, more vertical section to the anchors. Getting the anchors may be the crux, reaching high to clip before making the moves may be the best, especially for someone a little shorter. It is a decent route, great for intro leaders.
Protection 5 bolts - 2 bolt anchor.
Jonathan Bent with a great leg / heel hook on the ...
| BETA PHOTO: The line for Geek in the Creek - the first bolt is...
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| Comments on Geek in the Creek |
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By mary Jul 11, 2003
| This is pretty fun and good for beginner leaders... it would be easy to reach high and clip if you are tall... but as a midget, it was a lot easier for me to clip the anchors once they were at waste level. I though my clip position was a lot more secure even if you are higher up. |
By Puneet Pasrich From: Boulder, CO May 4, 2007
| Great fun! Just below the anchors there is a solid undercling that let me reach the anchors easily. |
By Nicole G From: San Francisco, CA Aug 1, 2010
| The majority of this climb is more like a 5.7. If you aren't tall (I am 5'4"), clipping the anchors is a bit difficult because you can't just stand up and clip - find a good undercling like one of the previous posters said and toward the right for a so-so hand. You can then stand up and be close enough to get the anchors. I don't know that I would recommend it for beginner leaders unless they are tall - in that case, definitely. Not so much for the short ones. |
By E Johnson From: Boulder, CO Mar 31, 2012
| Total waltz up to last bolt, then it became awkward 5.8. I couldn't figure out the last moves. I did not find an undercling or anything positive to get up into the final crack right of the anchors. Like the 10a to the left, it felt like the bolter must've been tall and didn't think to place anchors for average height people. |
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