Gearing up
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I've been climbing for several years doing mostly sport and whatever people will take me up due to my lack of money. It's time for me to finally buy trad gear and I have several questions. |
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DCSwish23 wrote:2. Cams. Brand? I've used BD and really like them, not a fan of the metolius cams (except master) because I feel like I'll drop them when I place them.You'll hear a lot of votes for BD's and Mastercams. It's what I have and I love them so far. C4's from .3-4 and Masters from 0-4. When I get some more dough I'll double the 1-3 in c4s DCSwish23 wrote:3. I have the basics (rope, draws, webbing, cordelette) is there anything else that I should get?Nut tool. 2 if your partner doesn't have one. DCSwish23 wrote:4. I'm considering getting a new rope too (esp if #5 comes through), what's your rec & why?I really like my Edelweiss Laser 9.6 rope so far. Bent Gate had them for under $150 a while ago if I remember correctly. DCSwish23 wrote:5. Looks like I'll be spending hundreds of dollars on gear all at once, is there anywhere I can get a discount on it?This won't help buying from one place, but check out spadout.com It does a lot of the shopping for you to get good prices. Moosejaw is great too |
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You should buy some of these: |
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BD and Wildcountry seem to be the most popular nuts. For the East Coast (gunks in particular) I prefer the WC's. |
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Do a forum search for your gear questions and to find cheap gear use the above mentioned sites plus google. |
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DCSwish23 wrote:1. Nuts nuts nuts, I need nuts...so which ones should I buy or does it matter? BD is the most common I've encountered, but are they the best? Should I go for the best or is it all about the same and I should go for whatever is a deal?First of all, like almost all climbing gear. Any brand will be just as safe as any other. That being said, you're gonna be buying based on cost, weight, ease of placement, and durability. If you are willing to spend the money go with DMM Wallnuts (#1-#10) will run you about $100. I climb on a double set and love 'em. DMM also have more advanced sets like the offsets and brass peenuts. This is a review of 11 different types of nuts. supertopo.com/best/Climbing… |
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The DMM offsets are the most amazing pro I own. They go places nothing else will and its not always flares either. I have peenuts too and like them but the full size offsets are amazing. |
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Jon H wrote: I also carry on "oh shit" carabiner. It's a lightweight locker and it has 2 prussiks, a 4' length of 1" webbing (for leaving as rappel tat), 2 quicklinks, and a small pocketknife.+1 for that. Always have a backup plan, also known as some webbing and rap rings/quicklinks. I've got some gear you can try out if you want to come climb in acadia some day. BD nuts, some c4s, and planning to pick up a master cam or two soon. You may not know it yet, but you'll want a pink tricam as well. Maybe two. The BD nuts are pretty good, but I would like to try the DMM wallnuts. The cut out in the side seems like it would help them place a little better around crystals. |
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Everyone has their own opinion on the gear they like, are most comfortable with, etc. BD is the norm, but a touch pricier (but well worth it!) I have BD 0.4-3, with a few doubles in there, as well as the largest 3 C3s and Ultralight TCU's (essentially wired bliss). I think the TCU's are a very nice complement to the smaller BD sizes. |
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1 - Nuts - Whatever you can get at a good price. #5-13 BD or whatever fits that size range. |
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Anthony Codega wrote: You may not know it yet, but you'll want a pink tricam as well. Maybe two.+1 pink tricams fit where nothing else does and once you get the hang of placing them you'll look for tricam placements over most other things |
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The new black tri-cam is pretty baller too. |
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Scott McMahon wrote:The new black tri-cam is pretty baller too.is it smaller than the pink? |
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Yep...they actually came out with two. The black and white, but the white is body weight only. "Two new sizes are available. The 0.125 (white) and 0.25 (black) fit even smaller cracks than the infamous pinky (as low as 10mm)". |
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By the way...am I the only one that's been seeing the "database" maintainence" screens? |
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oh wow i might need to look into those. and yeah i'm getting the errors too. they suck |
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I love my tri cams and my metolius cams. Throw in a couple of link cams. I started climbing in NH and in the Gunks. I learned from an old school trad leader so that meant nuts and hexes. When I discovered SLCD's and tri cams I was in heaven. People who 2nd generally don't like the tri cams as they can be a bitch to get out if you don't finger and finesse them right! |
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Reece Henson wrote: +1 pink tricams fit where nothing else does and once you get the hang of placing them you'll look for tricam placements over most other thingsHELL YES! |
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Larry S wrote:tricams are handy too. They're also great in solution pockets. And they're an inexpensive/light way to expand your rack so you have a backup of the small/medium size cams.Make sure to add the stiffy mod to your tricams. It makes them SO much more user friendly. I just used a few layers of a gallon milk jug and some duct tape. |
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Thanks for all the suggestions. I guess I should have added that I have a nut tool and some of those other things, but there are lots of those little things that I'm glad to hear about. I was debating the tricams but after your posts I think I'll at least get red and pink soon. As far as tricams go, whats the advantage/difference of nylon & dynemia. I looked on info on them and the dynemia ones were stronger but also cheaper which didnt make sense to me....seems like dynemia would be the obvious choice. |
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Althouh pretty heavy I have really liked being able to supplement my BD .5-4 and Mastercams 00-4 with the Omega Pacific Link Cams aka Panic Pieces. They fit great and it takes a lot of the guess work out of what to place if you're freaked out and need something in NOW. When first getting in to trad there were several times (probably due to my lack of experience) that I was unsure exactly what size cam to place and didnt want to dangle off a weak hold to try several cams. Throw in a link cam that you think is about right and you're golden. Often after that was placed I'd take the time to find the perfect fit with a C4 or Mastercam and then take the Link Cam out to use later. |