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Gear Suggestions for the Titan
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By Brian C.
From Longmont, CO
Mar 27, 2012
On Blanca after traversing from LB

A buddy and I are heading down for the Titan via Finger of Fate here very soon and looking for some advice. I've seen a couple different lists of stuff folks use to climb the Titan and wanted to see if anybody has any specific recommendations. I really want to do the route clean, so is there anything I need to make sure that I remember to bring?

Thanks.


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By Stiles
From the mountains
Mar 27, 2012
Rough

Tri cams are the most secure feeling placement in tHe fishers. You probably cant have to many tricams. Finge of Fate is pretty clean trade route w new bolts. Standard aid rack... l seem to remember lots of variation in crack size throughout each pitch. Goggles and a sunhat brim for your helmet are kickass, lots o sun and lots of sand raining anytime someone moves.Extra ropes to fix are handy. If you go all the way back to camp each nite you may need to leave your own ropes on the raps below the start saddle


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By Paul Gagner
Mar 27, 2012

Lots of small to large offset cams.

Paul


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By Jeremy Aslaksen
From Albuquerque, NM
Mar 29, 2012

Beer.


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By Brian C.
From Longmont, CO
Mar 29, 2012
On Blanca after traversing from LB

JeremyA wrote:
Beer.


Got that one covered!!!


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By Andrew Gram
Administrator
From Salt Lake City, UT
Mar 29, 2012
Andrew Gram

I haven't done the Finger, but I have done part of Sundevil and lots of other Fisher Towers routes. I think that big lowe balls are magic in blown pin scars - sometimes better than tricams. Really narrow headed cams like aliens work better than wider cams. Offset cams and big aluminum offsets are also great in pin scars. I always carry a bigass fish hook and a toucan for hand placing - don't always use them, but usually i do. Thickest ropes you've got - I pretty much only use 10.5 edelweiss stratos there anymore after shredding cheaper ropes in one route. Grigri so you can take a nap while the leader shakes.


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By Max Supertramp
Mar 30, 2012

just to reiterate,

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By Brian C.
From Longmont, CO
Apr 11, 2012
On Blanca after traversing from LB

For anybody interested. We took...

BD C4s: 0.5-4(x2), 5
Metolius TCUs: 00, 0, 1-4(x2)
1 set offset mastercams
1 set offset nuts (smallest to largest)
Tricams :0.5(x2), 1(x2), 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3
BD Stoppers: 2-13 doubles in 7-12
Hooks: Talon, Cliffhanger, Grappling
Rivet Hangers: 5
Tie-off loops: 5
1 set of Ballnuts
Stick clip
Assorted biners/slings/draws
Screamers: 8

We needed:

BD C4s: 0.5-4(x2), 5
Metolius TCUs: 00, 0, 1-4(x2)
1 set offset mastercams
Tricams :0.5(x2), 1(x2), 1.5, 2, 2.5, 3 (I think I only used the 0.5, 2.5 and 3 but can't quite remember)
BD Stoppers: 4 & 8 (did not place any others)
Stick clip
Screamers: 8

The magic pieces were the tricams, blue TCU (I back-cleaned these often on the first few pitches) and the offset cams. I was very surprised that I only placed two nuts and none of them were offsets. I needed the stickclip on the last pitch since I wasn't brave enough to climb up high enough to lasso the next pin. We did not place a single piton and did it at about 5.10 C3. The crux on aid was P3 and there were several dubious placements that would have been nice to have large sawed-off pins to hand stack. A piece larger than 5 would have been used on the P5 offwidth but I managed just fine grunting/freeing bits and I'm not the world's greatest free-climber. I did use one rivet hanger but it could have been avoided using a nut slid over the bolt. Hope this helps anybody wanting to do an all clean and pin-free ascent.

Oh yeah...expect to do some moves out of your aiders if you want it all clean.


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By Brian C.
From Longmont, CO
Apr 11, 2012
On Blanca after traversing from LB


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