Gear Review: Petzl MICRO TRAXION

Photo courtesy Petzl

The Micro Traxion is Petzl's latest iteration of a "progress-capture" pulley and being their smallest and lightest version yet, it could be conveniently summarized as being the little brother to the already popular Mini Traxion and Pro Traxion. In many families, the newest addition often gets the most attention leaving the middle child neglected, and in the case of these pulleys, that attention shift away from the Mini Traxion is warranted: Not only is the Micro smaller and lighter (checking in at a svelte 85 grams), but thanks to sealed bearings, it is more efficient as well. The Mini still has a few advantages, but they are minor: It has a higher breaking strength (though working load ratings are the same). It can handle slightly larger ropes (up to 13 mm whereas the Micro can handle 8 to 11 mm ropes). And you will pay a $10 premium for the Micro. Despite those trade-offs, in my book there is no reason to consider a Mini Traxion over a Micro Traxion.

So how does it work? One of the plates of the Micro pivots open to accept a rope; the rope fits between the pulley surface and a small, toothed cam similar to those commonly found in ascenders. The plates then pivot closed and are held in place by a carabiner which is also used to attach the device to an anchor point. Rope will feed one way, but upon reversing direction, the teeth catch in the sheath of the rope forcing the cam to engage and actually pinch the rope against the pulley, thus locking it off and preventing movement. I have never seen any sheath damage from this device (or any Petzl ascender for that matter), but I suppose it is possible with extended or abusive use. There is a small, textured button on the edge of the device that locks out the cam which is useful for inserting or removing a rope, or for using it as a simple pulley without progress-capture. This button requires one to hold the cam open and press the button at the same time to lock-out the cam and, unlike the red levers on the Mini and Pro Traxions, would be difficult actuate accidentally. The trade-off is that using the device requires a fair bit of dexterity.

Over the past few months I've had the opportunity to use Petzl's new MICRO TRAXION in a variety of situations and I'm happy to say it performs admirably. Here are my experiences:

Hauling: I've used it to haul day packs on 6 mm tag line (it's rated down to 8 mm so this is technically outside Petzl's recommendations), 8 mm tag line, and bigger loads on 10 mm static. In all cases it works well. In these examples I usually pre-load the device with the tag, clip it to my haul loop, and climb - I hardly notice the additional weight. This is my favorite use for the Micro - I bring it any time I'm climbing and tagging up a small pack; it has replaced my Tiblocs, which, despite being lighter, are not as smooth and easy as the Micro.

I'll note that I haven't had a chance to set up the Micro in a 3:1, 5:1, or 6:1 hauling situation, but I suspect it would work great in those situations as well. I do not know how it performs on icy or wet ropes though, which is perhaps the most common time these types of hauls are used (crevasse rescue).

Rope Soloing: I do a fair bit of TR solo - everything from my own projects in Red Rocks to rehearsing pitches high on El Cap - and I've tried several setups with varying levels of success, gradually tweaking them until arriving on a setup that I feel is as good as it gets: I use a steel quicklink to attach a Petzl Croll to my belay loop - this devices is held in position with a length of bungee cord that goes over my neck (tip: REI sells cotton bungee cord which is way more comfortable than anything nylon) - this is my primary progress-capture. Below this I have my backup: also clipped to my belay loop using a twist-lock 'biner, I drag the Micro Traxion up below the Croll. This setup feeds incredibly smoothly and is worry-free. Some people (usually those who have used a Mini Traxion as their primary rope solo device) worry about the small possibility that the lock-out lever will be actuated by brushing against the rock, thus rendering the cam ineffective. Some have even gone so far as to cut the lever off altogether. One nice feature of the Micro, as previously mentioned, is that the small size of the lock-out button would render accidental disengagement of the cam virtually impossible.

Tyrolean Traverse: This past winter I spent a good deal of time working on a sport project at the Sun Wall in the VRG, accessed by a convenient 80' Tyrolean over the Virgin River. My first time across I just used a couple quickdraws to anchor myself in and after sagging in the middle of the traverse and having to muscle myself the remaining distance, now too pumped to climb, I learned my lesson. The next time I installed the Micro and the moment I pushed off I was soaring across the Tyrol like I was wearing ice skates on a bobsled run. The cam in the device ensured I never lost any ground, though usually my momentum would get me clear across. I sent my project next burn... well, not exactly. But even when I had a bad day I could always look forward to the zip line ride across the river. I should note that Petzl does not recommend this use.

Simul-Climbing Rebelay: This is another non-recommended use of the Micro Traxion, but I find it to be amazing in this application. Basically it works like this: If you know you're going to be simul-climbing, give the leader the Micro. When the leader is almost out of rope (ie before the second begins to climb), the leader can clip a draw to a bomber, multi-directional piece of pro (preferably a bolt), and clip the other end of that draw to the rope - but not before installing the Micro on the rope end 'biner. Now, if the unthinkable happens and the second falls, the leader at least has a decent chance of surviving. Again, I've done this many times with great success - with some forethought, rope drag through the Micro is almost unnoticeable.

Obviously I'm a big fan of this piece of kit. Do I have any complaints? Yes, but they are small. Literally. The first is that the device is so small that I'm always worried I'm going to drop it. Especially when I'm manipulating it high on a route while inserting or removing a rope: Like the Mini Traxion and the GriGri, the Micro "clam-shells" open to accept a rope - only this device is tiny and it would be very easy to fumble. The other issue is that the markings on the device - small directional arrows - are always confusing to me. In order to make sure I feed the rope properly into the device, I instead look at the teeth on the cam to make sure the rope is running correctly. Even if you're not as clumsy and dumb as myself, I highly recommend you read the instructions and double check that the device is locking off properly before you trust your life to it.

Petzl Micro Traxion
Weight: 85 grams
Rope Size: 8-11 mm
Efficiency: 91%
Working Load: 2.5 kN
Breaking Strength: 4 kN
Retail: $95
www.petzl.com

Nate, thanks for the comment. Pulling the cam back and pressing the little button (which has a pretty strong spring and is really small) requires a fair bit of dexterity for me. I don't doubt your experience, but I'm just curious how exactly it happens?

I like when people disagree with things I put in my reviews as it gives others more than one perspective to inform their purchasing and usage decisions.

Great review. The pulley efficiency of the micro is amazing. It really takes the sting out of the first few day or two of hauling. I'm also going to try your solo setup. It sounds like it would work really well.

Excellent work Josh!
On your rope solo technique you said;
"I use a steel quicklink to attach a Petzl Croll to my belay loop - this devices is held in position with a length of bungee cord that goes over my neck (tip: REI sells cotton bungee cord which is way more comfortable than anything nylon) - this is my primary progress-capture. Below this I have my backup: also clipped to my belay loop using a twist-lock 'biner, I drag the Micro Traxion up below the Croll. This setup feeds incredibly smoothly and is worry-free."

I bought the Mini Traxion last spring and plan on using it to solo ice routes this winter.
Your technique seems to vary from what Petzl recomends in their literature, unless I am not seeing properly?
Any chance you could post an illustration or picture of this set-up? How do you keep from inverting with the Croll and Traxion so low?
Thank you in advance.
Tom-o
Edit: I think you use method 1 in the following example where I was referring to the 2nd
petzl.com/en/outdoor/produc…

Josh,

Thanks for the review.
Can you post a picture of your TR solo set-up?
Like Nate, I have had the micro's cam lock open.
It is surprisingly easy to do, and I'm not exactly sure how it happens yet.
I use the micro on a bungee and drag a mini trax below it.

Thanks,

Jason

I don't have time to take and upload photos of my TR solo set-up at the moment, but I believe my description is simple enough to understand. It is basically the same as the photo Locker uploaded, but I have the Croll where the Micro is and the Micro where the regular ascender is.

In this picture an ascender is used for backup:

The nifty hinge action (4 bar linkage) on a BD Nforce that makes for easy sliding of the ascender up the rope could disengage the cam if pinched between you and the rock when loaded(or rope for instance).

NateB wrote: However, if the rope passes to the outside of my legs while doing whatever climbing maneuver, two things can happen - 1) The locking lever can be held open by pressing against my legs, my pants, my harness, whatever and 2) the rope will have more twist and bind to it while passing through the device, which in turn can open the cam to its maximum. When these two events happen at the same time, the cam will lock open.

I think that's a good argument (among many others) for some kind of chest "harness" or bungee like Josh, myself, and others use in a TR solo setup.

@Locker and SavageMarmot:
The illustration you posted is the one I was referring to, and planning to use.
I think this is the method Josh is describing minus the bungee cord?

Attached to belay loop with locker as primary with secondary trailer below
I thought this was better suited for 2 ropes where I wish to only use one.

Did any of you file off the cam locking lever to avoid accidental opening?
I was thinking this would primarily be an issue with rock climbing rather than ice climbing since body positioning is further away from the medium?

Thanks again for the review Josh!

Out of curiosity, are there any benefits to using a device such as this over a prusik minding pulley for hauling situations?

Hi Josh,

Thanks for the review. Two questions:

1) Is there a reason that you use the Croll rather than the Micro Traxion as the primary device?

2) Do you usually use a static or a dynamic line with these, or is either fine in your book?

Cheers,
dh

PS, Uli says hi, and is psyched to get out with you when you get back this way. He's been browsing through the guidebook and says that "Three Doves" and "Bunny" look most interesting to him.

Dear Optimistic:

1) I use the Croll because it is designed to be oriented high and in conjunction with a chest harness (or as I use it, with just a simple loop of bungee cord which I put over my head). Because the Croll is above the belay loop and not dragged behind underneath it, the device locks off the moment you fall or sit on the rope - thus avoiding what I call the dreaded "mini-whipper". The mini-whipper is that 8-12" fall that occurs while a device dragging underneath your belay loop moves upwards before engaging and locking-off. During that split second I find there is a tremendous amount of anxiety as you do not know if it will actually catch. With the Croll, feedback is immediate.

There are other advantages too: It is very light, small, and easy to engage and disengage from the rope - much more so than the Micro.

2) With the Croll as primary, static and dynamic are perfectly fine. If I was to use a setup where I'd take the "mini-whipper" I'd prefer dynamic. However, it's important to understand that even static ropes do have some stretch, and taking a little 8" fall on static (so long as you're not right at the anchor where there's not much rope out to stretch) is probably just fine. Static does have certain advantages: it is stiff and feeds really well, you don't loose progress due to stretch, and it's quite durable. These don't necessarily outweigh the versatility of dynamic ropes though and usually I TR solo with my retired lead lines.

Please give my best to Uli. Tell him to respect the sherpas when they're fixing lines and to keep his litterbox clean.

Every time I TR with a mini I experience the feeling that this might be the day that I die - usually a few seconds before I leave the ground for my first pitch of the day.

My antidote to this feeling is to think of the thousands of pitches logged by Yosemite hardpeople on single mini's up on El Cap. Look at Caldwell's setup on the Dawn Wall in this vid for an example (at about 1:25):

youtu.be/i9tc07mcJZE

I'll never be confident enough to use a single mini, but knowing that others do without issue gives me peace in my time at Arch and the Cookie.