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Gear Review - La Sportiva TC Pro
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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Nov 6, 2009
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

Tommy Caldwell is an inspiration, a bad ass and one of the most talented all around climbers in the world. When I heard Sportiva was coming out with the TC Pro I wanted in. I've been a Miura junkie for a while but was curious about what the TC Pro had to offer. I dream of doing many long free routes and thought these shoes might offer an all day solution.


The sun sets on the way to Sous Le Toit ledge on El Capitan.

So far I've worn the TC Pros for more than twenty days which has racked up over 100 pitches of climbing. This ranges from the first day wearing the shoes at the gym, a pair of multi-pitch first ascents in the Tuttle Creek / Lone Pine Peak region to climbing El Capitan. I've climbed from 5.6 slab to 5.12 face and all grades and styles in between. I've been climbing mainly on granite but the type of granite ranges from the the alpine rock of Mount Langley and Mount Conness, to Tahquitz, Joshua Tree and Yosemite.


Standing on nothing in Pine Creek Canyon, CA

Pros:

  • Stiff sole edge well on very small holds.
  • Horizontal stiffness and toe padding make this shoe a crack climbing all-star.
  • Lining is soft and warm (good for alpine routes).
  • High top provides excellent ankle protection.

Cons:

  • Long break in time.
  • The side rand has durability issues.
  • Thick sole reduces sensitivity.
  • Expensive.

Sizing:

I wear the TC Pro in a size 39. I wear size 38.5 Miuras and Testarossas (tight) and size 38 Katanas (tight) & Cobras.

In 5.10 shoes I wear 7.5 Mocasysms (comfy).


A bit of tricky footwork on Pratt's Crack.

Full review can be found on DreamInVertical

Cheers,

Luke


Full Disclosure: La Sportiva provided these shoes to the reviewer in exchange for this review. The opinions expressed above are my own and reflect my experience with these shoes. Feel free to leave comments regarding your opinion of these shoes.


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By Red
From Arizona
Nov 6, 2009
Cobra Kai

I can write a review. How do I get a free pair?


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By Red
From Arizona
Nov 6, 2009
Cobra Kai

It was a good review though. Price alone, I'm not buying them.


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By rhyang
From San Jose, CA
Nov 6, 2009
21-August-2012: Me just before heading up the Twilight Pillar (III, 5.8+)

They've been on several 15-20% off sales lately (Moosejaw for one). I've seen a number of people wearing them, both outside and at the gym.

Got mine at Mammoth Mountaineering Supply and have about 10-15 climbing days on them. Still getting used to them .. mainly I just use them for hand cracks and such. They seem great in Tuolumne cracks that have little knobby teeth :) Those side rands do look a bit thin and I've seen another poster on the Taco saying he had to do a little shoe gooing.

I also have a pair of Acopa JB's, but the katana last seems more precise for my foot shape, and I usually prefer the vibram rubber. My feet measure 9.5 US and in katanas I wear 40.5 EU. In the TC's I bought size 41.


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By rob rebel
From Denver, co
Nov 6, 2009
I get excited over a large desert rack

Great review. Once my sportmasters finally wear out I plan on buying a pair.

A big pro for me is - ankle protection.


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By Eric J
From 50000;74000
Nov 6, 2009

Too expensive! And I've already had one person tell me that they have the typical Sportiva delamination issues. Sportiva shoes perform great--they just don't hold up as well as many of their competitors' shoes. A shame because they tend to fit me better than almost any other brands.


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By Punter Brewster
Nov 6, 2009
High Steppin' into the crux of Exoduster.

I agree in full, with the one exception that I have not yet had any delamination issues. I however have not yet ticked off 100 full pitches in them yet.


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By Brian Milhaupt
From Golden, CO
Nov 6, 2009
Pyramid

I felt like these performed very well on granite cracks. Climbed Astroman and the Rostrum in them and loved them from start to finish and my ankles were not bleeding like my partners. I then wore them in Eldorado canyon and felt like I needed more sensativity than this sturdy last can provide. The cost is substantial, but I've never had the delamination problems so I plan to resole MANY times.
FYI-Never claim that you are "climbing like Tommy Caldwell" while wearing these shoes. Your performance will immediately take a nose dive.


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