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Gear Review - ARC'TERYX WST Harnesses
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By Tits McGee
From Boulder, CO
Jan 5, 2009
How I Send

vegastradguy wrote:
i'm actually shocked that folks are experiencing premature wear on these harnesses....


I am shocked as well - I have had two arc'teryx vapors that I only retired based on age(not wear and tear). So to have had two new 320s experience unusual wear and tear is amazing...The reinforcement on the leg loop connections became unusually wore prematurely and on my newest one, the stitching and over all workmanship is not what I would expect. Maybe if I was a hardcore climber and wore the harness all of the time, but I don't and it is not my primary harness...mainly because of the first one wearing out on me.


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By Mike Larson
From Los Angeles, CA
Jan 5, 2009
Weeping Wall Central Pillar

As to the durability issues, I've used my R-320 exclusively (likely between 70-100 days climbing)for the past 9 months and it still looks new. Have used the haul loop for tag/haul lines on multiple occasions and never have had issues. It is by far the best harness I have ever used when you take into account weight and bulk.


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Jul 15, 2009

Tricky to size correctly. Leg loops run small. Careful when you're trying them on to note where the gear loops are. The harness may fit on the tightened down side, but then your loops are right over your thighs, don't want that gear hanging there.

One of the nice features is that you can pop off the plastic gear loop covers and reverse them, to better adjust your gear. I think this is the only harness that does that.

All told, I'd say this is a really nice harness. But, having worn it for a fair bit now, I'd also say that I'm not convinced it's worth paying 50 bucks extra for this one over a comparable Petzl.


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By wilcox510
Jul 19, 2009

I have this harness, I don't really like it all that much. True, you can barely feel that its on. But I feel like its so flimsy that with a lot of stuff on the gear loops it feels like its going to pull down past my iliac crest (it wont really do that, it just feels like it). Also the buckle is constantly slowly creeping open. I've had one other harness with the auto-doubled back buckle deal (an older Petzl) and it didnt do that.


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By Luke Stefurak
From Mountain View, CA
Sep 10, 2009
Below "Inspect Her Gadget" at HP40 after sending it the previous day.

I have enjoyed wearing this harness a lot.

My review can be found here:
dreaminvertical.wordpress.com/2009/09/07/sweet-gear-arcteryx>>>

Pros:

Very lightweight and moves well with your body.

Comfortable to wear while hiking and descending from long routes.

Breathes well and is soft enough to wear shirtless.

Gear loops are reversible and large enough for a double rack of cams plus quickdraws.

Cons:

Gear loops are somewhat floppy and the plastic can become detached.

Gear loops are proportional to the size of harness. The smaller sized harnesses have less room for gear.

Adjustable leg loops are only available on the A300a and the X350a, the alpine WST harnesses.

Expensive.

- Luke


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By Tom T
Sep 11, 2009

Tits McGee wrote:
I can't believe no one has mentioned the durability (or lack there of) - I have returned two of these because of what I would consider lack of quality construction - especially for the cost. Has anyone else had issues with this?



Mine is quickly wearing away to nothing. One of the gear loops actually broke the 2nd time i used it. A 1.5 season lifespan for a $150 harness will make this my last arcteryx harness.


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By DisturbingThePeace
From Albuquerque, NM
Sep 11, 2009
PBR Time at the Creek

Only issue with mine is the lower tie in point has worn through to the warning marks. Other than that it is in great condition. I've had mine for 1.5 years with 95 days of outdoor use, mostly sport but some trad and wall climbing.

I've heard rumors that they are going to redesign the lower tie in point to improve the durability. Anyone else heard this?

Either way, I've been happy enough with mine to justify buying another one. Might try putting a piece of plastic or something on the lower tie in point to make it last longer.

As mentioned above the haul loop is flimsy looking, but mine has worked whenever I used it. But I've been a little nervous about when the full weight of a haul line is in on it.


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By Peter Pitocchi
Oct 27, 2009
Pete belays 2nd pitch Little corner

I threaded a spectra dogbone onto the waist, past two gear loops and centered in the back. Works like a full strength haul loop to supplement the D-ring clip.


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By Adam Block
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 17, 2009

Found a site selling their last one 240 for $69, I couldn't say no. We will see firstly if it comes, if so I will post my thoughts though I think if you saw what I've been using you would understand there was no place to go but up. I must add though that Yogo really knew how to design a seat belt!


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By Kai Huang
From Thornton, CO
Nov 17, 2009

Adam Block wrote:
Found a site selling their last one 240 for $69, I couldn't say no. We will see firstly if it comes, if so I will post my thoughts though I think if you saw what I've been using you would understand there was no place to go but up. I must add though that Yogo really knew how to design a seat belt!



which site? would be interested if it was $69....


never mind. found it here. buy here


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Nov 17, 2009

That's the one with just two gear loops.

I have the 320 (four gear loops) and had FISH sew on a 5th in the back in the center, over the haul loop. Works well for extras on occassion.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Nov 17, 2009
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

Have had my 240 for over a year and still love it. Loggoed lots of air including a 50 and a 60 footer as well as many hours belaying as people worked projects. It is great. Need to get the 4 loop model for doing trad.


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By Adam Block
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 17, 2009

Eric Rhicard wrote:
Have had my 240 for over a year and still love it. Loggoed lots of air including a 50 and a 60 footer as well as many hours belaying as people worked projects. It is great. Need to get the 4 loop model for doing trad.


That's awesome to hear, we have a similar build and most of the bitching I hear from people about this harness is from big guys. I feel seriously guilty about spending the $70 on this thing, I'm sooooo broke right now I took the money from something else but whatever, I need a new harness pretty bad.

Will post my thoughts on it next week as that's the first chance I'll have to climb in it.


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By Kevin Stricker
From Evergreen, CO
Nov 18, 2009

About a year and a half of light use (2-4 times per month max) and I can already see orange thread wearing through on the leg loop tie in point. Bummer.....


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By Adam Block
From Tucson, AZ
Nov 30, 2009

I haven't put much use on it yet but I got the 240 and I love the thing, it's amazing how comfortable and unnoticeable it is. The leg loops fit me fine, perfect in fact but I'm not a huge guy either. I would like a loop in the middle in back for a chalk bag but I can live without that. Also, they gave me an awesome tin with the harness, that's great but lacks all function, didn't come with a bag or anything else which sucks on a harness that costs this much.

Can't comment on wear but it's worth the extra money if you ask me.


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By Peter L K
From Cincinnati, OH
Dec 7, 2009
rrg

I also am wearing through tie in points quickly. I'm considering wrapping some black fabric tape around them to prevent more wear. The manual says orange means that the weight bearing section is now being abraded, not that it's unsafe as soon as you see any orange.


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By 1Eric Rhicard
Dec 7, 2009
It is a good sized roof. Photo: Jimbo

I have just this week started to see a tiny bit of orange. Since I am sure it is overbuilt for safety I will replace it after the next project goes down. For the record, against man. suggestions, I put my belay biner through the tie in points as it reduces the number of times my belay biner gets cross loaded and allows me (short arms) to feed out more rope while belaying. I climb 2-5 times a week and maybe the biner creates less wear than a belay loop. I paid $99 for mine and would do it every year if that's what I need to do.


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By sesser125
From Boulder, CO
Dec 7, 2009

My tie in point has also worn through to the orange. I just taped it up and kept on climbing, with minimal grumbling from partners. This problem has been heard by Arcteryx and they are looking into fixing it. Though when I talked with them, one rep stated that this harness is not for sport climbing, where many falls will be taken working a route. Rather this is a trad climbing harness, where falls are less likely to be taken. Either way I love the harness just wish it would have lasted a little longer

S


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By Peter L K
From Cincinnati, OH
Feb 28, 2010
rrg

I sent mine away to be looked at because of the early tie in wear.

Also, my leg loops have started collapsing on the inner portion - they are folding over and are not supporting my weight across the full width. They are not very comfy this way!


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By caughtinside
From Oakland CA
Mar 4, 2010

I've been using mine now for a year and a half. No signs of the orange at the tie ins yet. I climb a fair bit, mostly trad.

I went to the gym a couple weeks ago and used my old harness, a 2003 petzl Corvus. Wow, the corvus is light years more comfortable than the arcteryx 320. I would rate the 320 about equal comfort wise to my Petzl sama. I'd describe the 320 comfort as decent but not great. I'll keep an eye on the wear.

Given all that, the biggest place the 320 shines is in packability, it smashes down super small to save space in the pack. I don't think that's worth an extra $50 to me over something like the Sama.

All that said, it's a good harness and I'm glad I tried it out, I'll keep running it till it dies.


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By Coeus
From a botched genetics experiment
Mar 4, 2010
I am a neandertal.

sesser125 wrote:
Though when I talked with them, one rep stated that this harness is not for sport climbing, where many falls will be taken working a route. Rather this is a trad climbing harness, where falls are less likely to be taken.


Hear me now Arc'Teryx - this is a dumb excuse for a harness that wears out quickly and costs as much as it does.


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By bigwallrog
From the farside
Mar 4, 2010

Ok I too was smitten by the x350a but has anybody else noticed there leg buckles loosening

Mine seem to work loose walking around but stay tight while climbin

Also the clipper slots seem a tad bit loose

Still a great harness


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