Start on the very left side of the face, clip bolts angling right. Then proceed straight up on the golden brown and delicious face.
This route lies on the small buttress behind and above Mary's Bust, left of the route Tres Cojones e un Cuernito (see that route description for approach info.)
Bolts to a bolt anchor. (We found it helpful to sling a small boulder for the belay, to better see the leader).
|By Bernard Gillett|
Jun 29, 2010
A very nice pitch with a unique finish, and a fine position high above the deep gully separating the main and left buttresses at Mary's Bust. It feels like you're topping out on a much bigger face even though the route is only 75-80 feet long. You can place a #0.5 Camalot at the beginning (unclip after getting the first bolt). There are nine bolts, with a continuous crux section between bolts 5 and 8.