Login with Facebook
 ADVANCED
Bell Buttress - Main Crag
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Arms Bazaar T 
Beethoven's Fifth T 
Bell Air T,S 
Bell Buster S 
Cosmosis T 
Daedulus Direct T 
Double Jeopardy T 
Epiphany T 
Epiphany Direct T 
Freak on a Leash S 
Gates of Eden T 
Grand Inquisitor T 
Hound Dog S 
Joe Pontiac T 
Little Man in the Boat T 
North Face T 
Pitts, The T 
Purpose, The T,S 
Route That Dan Missed, The T,TR 
Saved by the Bell T 
Spoils, The T 
Three Minute Hero T 
Tiempos de Ceguera (Times of Blindness) S 
Unknown T 
Verve S 
West Crack T 
West Face T 
Wrinkles T 

Gates of Eden 

YDS: 5.10a French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a

   
Type:  Trad, 3 pitches
Consensus:  YDS: 5.10- French: 6a Ewbanks: 18 UIAA: VI+ ZA: 18 British: E1 5a [details]
FA: Pat Ament & Dan Smith
Page Views: 2,481
Submitted By: Steve Levin on Jul 10, 2001

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (17)
Your todo list:
Your stars:
Your rating: -none- [change]
Your ticklist: [add new tick]
Your opinion of this PAGE:    [1 person likes this page.]
Kat A. working her way through the 'Gates Of Eden'...

Seasonal Raptor Closure MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The Gates of Eden takes the strenuous, overhanging slot immediately left of Double Jeopardy. Nothing to hide here! The climbing is reminicent of the struggle-fests found on just about every multi-pitch 5.9 in Yosemite- this is a good trainer for building confidence in thrashing. The climbing is actually quite good, and well-protected to boot. Getting off the ground is the hard part, but the whole climb provides a sustained workout. Step left to anchors on Grand Inquisitor or Hound Dog, then rappel; or continue up and right to join upper Cosmosis. The aspiring 5.9/5.10- trad climber could devise a bit of a marathon on Bell Buttress by climbing Gates of Eden, Double Jeopardy, Cosmosis, West Crack, and West Face in-a-day. A good trainer for something like the NE Buttress on Higher Cathedral Rock in the Valley...

Protection 

Your typical rack-o-gear, up to a 3" cam.


Photos of Gates of Eden Slideshow Add Photo
Kat A. emerges from the steep, middle section of Gates Of Eden (5.10) at Bell Buttress.  Sept. 2012.
Kat A. emerges from the steep, middle section of G...

Comments on Gates of Eden Add Comment
Show which comments
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Jul 10, 2001

Gear up to a 4 Friend???
By Steve Levin
From: Boulder, CO
Apr 5, 2002

A more realistic training day for the NE Buttress on Higher Cathedral Rock in the Valley would be to do these 5 routes at least twice, and then hike Green Mountain.
By Tony B
From: Around Boulder, CO
May 22, 2002
rating: 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b

Gear to a #3 Camalot or #4 Friend sounds good to me. The opening overhang is tough for 10a and somewhat insecure. I remember wishing I had a second fist-sized piece.
By Bill Wright
May 23, 2002

Steve's right about the workout for NE Buttress of HCR in Yosemite, except that you should hike Green Mountain first. NE Butt is the 5.9 climber's Astroman. It is big, burly, and the second half is much harder than the first half. Even 5.11 and above climbers (like Steve) respect this route.
By Anonymous Coward
Oct 14, 2002

Gates of Eden is a pretty cool route. I agree that doubles of fist size stuff makes it seem less scary. It's a good alternative if people are on Cosmosis and West Face. Don't be put off by its daunting appearance.
By Rich Farnham
Aug 8, 2003

I lugged a #4 (Camalot) and doubles on the hand sizes, and ended up only using a single rack up to a #3. The crack in the back of the flare varies in size enough that you don't need lots of big gear. Rather than going up and way left to the anchors on Hound Dog, it's very easy to place a directional and step right to the anchors at the top of the new bolt route on the arete just right of Double Jeopardy (Yeah, the one with the bolts right next to the crack). If you runner the route well, you can lower off these anchor bolts and belay from the ground.
By Hayden Yurkanis
Oct 15, 2003

This climb is pretty tough. The opening overhang has spaced hand jams with weird feet. However, once you get into the offwidth the climbing becomes easier--but getting into the thing is challenging. Look for the sidepulls on the right side of the chimney
By mike c
From: nederland
Sep 3, 2012
rating: 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a

I think 10- is about right. Good start move and then it lets up. No 4s needed ....
By Brent Butler
From: Boulder, CO
Jun 24, 2013
rating: 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a

Less of a struggle then I expected. A solid knee bar off the ground kept the bottom overhang at 5.10-. Small and varied sizes in the back of the crack allow one to leave the doubles behind.