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Gate Buttress
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Beckey's Wall Area 
Dihedrals Area 
East Gate Buttress 
Five Fingers Area 
Heaven's Gate Area 
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Schoolroom Area 
University Slabs 

Gate Buttress 


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Mantling on the lone chickenhead.

Description 

Gate Buttress contains the most popular crags in Little Cottonwood. Routes range from easy 5th class to impossible-to-believe-humans-could-climb-it lines.

See an oblique aerial view here.


Getting There 

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.


The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gate Buttress:
Schoolroom   5.6     Trad, 5 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Terror   5.7     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade II   Beckey's Wall Area
Beckey's Wall   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 160 feet   Beckey's Wall Area
Schoolroom West   5.7     Trad, 3 pitches, 300 feet, Grade II   Schoolroom Area
Schoolroom Direct Variation   5.7 R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50 feet   Schoolroom Area
Satan's Corner   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 100 feet   Dihedrals Area
Callitwhatyouplease   5.8     Trad, 1 pitch, 120 feet   Schoolroom Area
The Hook   5.8 R     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet   Schoolroom Area
Bushwhack Crack   5.8     Trad, 2 pitches, 250 feet   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Torture   5.8     Trad, 4 pitches, 400 feet, Grade III   Beckey's Wall Area
Fingertrip Variation   5.8+ PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150 feet   Beckey's Wall Area
Half-A-Finger   5.9+     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Dihedrals Area
The Flakes   5.10b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200 feet   East Gate Buttress
Equipment Overhang Right   5.10b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Dihedrals Area
Black and White John and Mary   5.10c     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80 feet   Dihedrals Area
Mind Blow   5.10d R     Trad, 170 feet   Schoolroom Area
To Air is Human   5.10d     Trad, 1 pitch, 200 feet   East Gate Buttress
Stem the Tide   5.10d R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60 feet   Dihedrals Area
Equipment Overhang   5.11a     Trad, 70 feet   Dihedrals Area
Split Fingers   5.11c     Trad, 1 pitch, 145 feet   Beckey's Wall Area
Browse More Classics in Gate Buttress

Featured Route For Gate Buttress
Beckey's Wall. <br />Photo by Blitzo.

Beckey's Wall 5.7  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Beckey's Wall Area
Beckey's Wall climbs the prominent right facing dihedral just right of Satan's Corner and left of Tarzan. Pitches 1 and 2 are often combined.P1) Climb up slabby low angle dihedral for a short pitch to get to a set of chain anchors. (5.6)P2) Continue up the dihedral, doing some fun stemming up to a piton. Then climb up the steep dihedral, using flakes on the left face. Finish at a ledge with 3 bolts with chains. (5.7)From here, one option is to rap ...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT