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Gate Buttress

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Beckey's Wall Area 
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Gate Buttress  


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Location: 40.5733, -111.7533 View Map  Incorrect?
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Administrators: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq, Kristine Hoffman (sitewide)
Submitted By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 2, 2007
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The land is owned by the LDS Church; please be respectful of this. MORE INFO >>>

Description 

Gate Buttress contains the most popular crags in Little Cottonwood. Routes range from easy 5th class to impossible-to-believe-humans-could-climb-it lines.

See an oblique aerial view here.

Getting There 

Drive 1.25 miles up Little Cottonwood Canyon parking at either the lot on the left or along side the right side of the road.

There is a main trail that begins on the west side of the parking lot that leads up to the Gate Boulders where the trail forks. For the Dihedrals and Beckey's Wall take the right fork and head up hill. This branch is rather fragmented and is not always clear. For all other crags continue west as the trail meanders through the revegetated talus area. See the individual crag descriptions for more info on getting to them.

Note: In 1998 through 2000 the area below where the approach trail is located was quarried and is presently under revegetation. Please stay on the climber's trail so it can recover.

Climbing Season



Weather station 3.4 miles from here

86 Total Routes

['4 Stars',5],['3 Stars',40],['2 Stars',29],['1 Star',11],['Bomb',1]
['<=5.6',8],['5.7',11],['5.8',17],['5.9',16],['5.10',16],['5.11',14],['5.12',4],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]

The Classics

Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Gate Buttress:
Schoolroom   5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b     Trad, 5 pitches, 400'   Schoolroom Area
Beckey's Wall   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 160'   Beckey's Wall Area
Schoolroom Direct Variation   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R     Trad, 1 pitch, 50'   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Terror   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Beckey's Wall Area
Hatchet Crack   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Schoolroom Area
Schoolroom West   5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b     Trad, 3 pitches, 300'   Schoolroom Area
Tingey's Torture   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 4 pitches, 400'   Beckey's Wall Area
Callitwhatyouplease   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 1 pitch, 120'   Schoolroom Area
Satan's Corner   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 100'   Dihedrals Area
Bushwhack Crack   5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c     Trad, 2 pitches, 250'   Schoolroom Area
Fingertrip Variation   5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 150'   Beckey's Wall Area
Half-A-Finger   5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
Equipment Overhang Right   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13     Trad, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
The Flakes   5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b     Trad, 2 pitches, 200'   East Gate Buttress
Black and White John and Mary   5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b     Trad, TR, 1 pitch, 80'   Dihedrals Area
Stem the Tide   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Sport, TR, 1 pitch, 60'   Dihedrals Area
To Air is Human   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b     Trad, 1 pitch, 200'   East Gate Buttress
Mind Blow   5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R     Trad, 170'   Schoolroom Area
Equipment Overhang   5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c     Trad, 70'   Dihedrals Area
Split Fingers   5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a     Trad, 1 pitch, 145'   Beckey's Wall Area
Browse More Classics in Gate Buttress

Featured Route For Gate Buttress
Mark Hammond nearing the top of the second pitch as  the canyon illuminates and rain starts to fly. 9.21.10 Photo by Zach Clanton

Satan's Corner 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c  UT : Wasatch Range : ... : Dihedrals Area
Super classic jam crack. Stout for 5.8, and gear can be a little strenuous to place at times. Start in the same spot as Beckey's Wall. Satan's Corner can be done in 1 or 2 pitches, but I'd recommend doing it in a single pitch. Fairly sustained, both pitches are 5.8.P1) Climb the vertical hand jam crack on the wall left of Beckey's Wall. The crux comes at a spot where the crack is too wide for easy foot jamming. Belay at a good sized ledge with a hand sized crack for setting an anchor.P2) C...[more]   Browse More Classics in UT

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By choppinBolts
5 days ago
Who could we write thank you notes to for allowing this area to be open to climbers? How can we build this relationship even more?