Gash Peak - Golden Dihedral
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Hanging in August 2009 East Fork Valley with the A...
Finding this route is not a problem for the Winds due to its distinctive appearance, but route finding up high on the route may be somewhat tricky as essentially one encounters no fixed gear up this long line. We did the route in 9 long (every pitch >50m) pitches. Very sustained and complicated by lots of grass hummock filled hand cracks leaves one to ponder how rarely this classic for the area gets ascended.
The last strenuous pitch is a pump! It is testament to the Arsenault Fowler team strength that rated it a mere 5.9!!
Gash Peak is North Ambush or the high point immediately to the north of Ambush. a very committing route once high, descend on the ridge line to the saddle just south of Ambush back to the East Fork Valley.
Full set of Camalots from C3 to #5 ad set of nuts. Some piton belays found low on the route. Arsenault told me up in the cirque that he always carries a hammer with a few pins on Ambush...mostly to refix the ones in situ, however, you won't find many pins on this route.
By stephen arsenault
Sep 22, 2015
I climbed this route on Labor Day with my daughter's boyfriend, who leads 5.13.
There was an offwidth/squeeze chimney section, ( about 10 feet)on the 3rd or 4th pitch, in the dihedrals, which we both felt was 5.10. I've done the route 3 times,and don't remember problems in the past, but at 69+, I'm feeling my age, and thought I would add this comment.
Route follows right skyline