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Hard Rock
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Gas Boost 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Sport, 1 pitch, 45'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8+ French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: Brian Smoot
Page Views: 2,634
Submitted By: Perin Blanchard on Apr 21, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (73)
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Getting twisty!

Located in a National Forest Fee Area MORE INFO >>>

Description 

The right-most route on the southwest face of Hard Rock. There is a large tree just to the right of the route. Solid limestone with lots of pockets and jugs.

The route is quite steep until after the fourth bolt, then easy cruising to the anchors. I thought the crux was between the third and fourth bolts; others were more worried about getting to the first bolt (the landing isn't great, with tree roots on the ground).

There is a large pocket just up from and to the left of the first bolt. Inside is a slimy mass that looks like something from a '50s horror movie. Beware.

Protection 

4 bolts to chain anchors.


Photos of Gas Boost Slideshow Add Photo
starting the climb on gas boost
starting the climb on gas boost
At the second bolt.
BETA PHOTO: At the second bolt.
The Hard Rock, South West Face <br />15 <a href='/v/treehugger/105837747'>Treehugger</a> 5.10b <br />16 <a href='/v/vaporous-apparition/105741350'>Vaporous Apparition</a> 5.9 <br />17 <a href='/v/gas-boost/105817604'>Gas Boost</a> 5.8
BETA PHOTO: The Hard Rock, South West Face
15 Treehugger 5....

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Comments displayed oldest to newestSkip Ahead to the Most Recent Dated May 1, 2014
By Steve Olson
Sep 7, 2007

Gas Boost is only rated a 5.8 in "Climber's Guide to American Fork Canyon/Rock Canyon" (Ruckman) but it should be rated 5.9; although there are some great jug holds, the space between the third and fourth clips has smaller holds (no jugs).
As a bonus feature, many of the jug holds are filled with smooth, creamy bat guano.
By Skyler Penrod
Jul 8, 2008

A deceiving route.
By Jon Zucco
From: Denver, CO
Sep 30, 2008
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

this route was my girlfriend's hardest redpoint to date. i lead it afterwards to clean and it definitely seemed a little awkward, slick and pumpy for an 8. we had two beginners with us that couldn't even pull the opening sequence. for this i'll give it a +. could even be a 9- at parts.
By Chauncemaster
From: Sandy, UT
Oct 4, 2008
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

A fun climb but definitely seemed a bit harder in spots than the official 5.8 book rating.
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
Jul 22, 2009
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

My wife and I did this one after leading one around the corner (I still can't find out what it is or what it's named, or even a good enough map to tell me which one it is). I enjoyed it. The sun was blazing so it made for a warm and sweaty climb. Being a popular climb makes for a couple polished holds, and the guano doesn't help. I didn't think it was more than an 8. Good holds to be found. It pumped out my wife, but she's kindof new and she had just lead the one around the corner.
By Nich Cloward
From: American Fork
May 4, 2012
rating: 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Bolt number 3 or 4 is loose, depending on if you count the first bolt as the one next to your shins from the landing.
By Mark Lewis
From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Jul 26, 2012
rating: 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c

Fun climb on big holds, though they do thin out a bit, as noted by some other comments. The holds are quite greasy, but I didn't run into any bat guano (thank goodness!). Definitely worth doing, a great warm up.
By Connor England
From: Tooele, Utah
Aug 11, 2012
rating: 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13

Route was fun, but the holds are getting pretty greased over... Climbing shoes were even slipp'n on a few of the deceiving holds. Should be rated a 5.9- First bolt is pretty far up, have a good spotter. Bottom link on the chains need to be replaced soon, wearing thin...
By James D.
Aug 16, 2012

This was an onsight for me at the end of the day. It looked pretty straightforward from the base, but I was taken aback when I got on the wall. It's tougher than it looks- challenging for a 5.8, but I really enjoyed it. Also, Connor is right about the chains being worn down.
By bsmoot
Sep 29, 2013

Chain links have been replaced
By Eric Chabot
From: Thetford Ctr, VT
May 1, 2014

Super slimy holds and awkward moves make this one a route to avoid IMO.