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The Flakes area at Garrett Mountain contains several distinct features that make this a unique bouldering area in New Jersey. The area is just below a 50 foot tower at the top of the cliff line overlooking Paterson. Parking can be found either at the top of the cliff in a small parking lot just off of a loop road which runs through Garrett Mountain Reservation. Drive on the loop road and park at the parking lot across the street from the obvious tower. You can also park below the cliff in the parking lot for Lambert's Castle.
From the northbound Garden State Parkway, take exit 153B to Route 3 West. Stay on this road for about two miles or less. Just after going under a bridge exit right down an exit to a right turn on Valley Road. Take Valley for about 1.5 miles to Lambert's Castle. You've gone too far if you cross a highway and enter Paterson.
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This is a really fun problem which runs up the overhanging underside of Flake 2. It begins on two low holds just to the right of the Left Side Arete. Using the arete or the large positive hold mentioned in Left Side Arete is off limits for this problem. Begin with hands crossed in low holds about three feet off the ground. Reach up with the right for a small positive hold. Left hand goes up to a layback feature. Step up onto sloping ledge and then reach long with the right up to a triangular pin...[more] Browse More Classics in NJ