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 ADVANCED
Upper Slab and Upper Wall
Routes Sorted
L to R R to L Alpha
Gargoyle T 
Moraviana T 
Off-Width Chimney T 

Gargoyle 

YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 70'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.8 French: 5b Ewbanks: 16 UIAA: VI- ZA: 15 British: HVS 4c [details]
FA: 
Page Views: 281
Submitted By: Don MacKenzie on Sep 10, 2012

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Description 

From the bolt anchor atop the Upper Slab, angle left across a grassy ledge to reach an obvious buttress. Either climb out onto the buttress immediately and follow it up (5.6) or follow the right-facing corner to a tree before traversing left onto the buttress (5.5).

Head for some chockstones in a broken down section, and climb over them. Pass a small bulge, backing up a questionable fixed pin. Keep right and head for the fist-sized crack above, using it to pull over the crux bulge near the top (5.8). Belay from a gear anchor on the comfortable ledge.


Location 

Start from bolt anchor at top left of Upper Slab.

From the top of the climb, a couple of exposed 3rd-class moves take you to the summit, whence you can hike back to the base of the cliff.


Protection 

Standard rack to #3 camalot or equivalent. Extra fist-sized cams or large hexes for anchor.



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By Don MacKenzie
From: Seattle, WA
Sep 10, 2012

I listed this as 5.8 because that's the guidebook rating. But it's certainly no harder than some of the 5.7's at the Precipice.