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Several ice flows from WI3+ to WI5 multi-pitch climbs exist. Condition of ice flows dependent on weather. Sometimes very thin to nothing at all can exist on some of the longer flows. Be prepared for bitter coldness or worst rain sometimes.
Cross country skis and snow shoes are needed. Turn left at Thirteen Falls Campground and follow trail towards Mt. Lafayette. When trail crosses Franconia Brook, keep heading straight on an old logging road. When logging road terminates to being mostly forest head uphill for 1 mile heading slightly east. When slope gets steep your underneath it and keep going up. If slope doesn't get steep after much walking you missed and you'll have to try again. Not easy to find. Shortest distance to car parked 6-7 miles. Longest distance to car 10 miles. Shortest distance is by Garfield Trail to the A.T. follow it east to trail leading down to 13 Falls. Don't go to Falls, instead cut traverse across slope until crag comes into view. Another way is Gale Head Trail to Gale Head Hut and walk south and down past Hut to 13 Falls.
7 Total Routes
Browse More Classics in Garfield Crag
Mountain Project's determination of some of the classic, most popular, highest rated routes for Garfield Crag:
Post Hole Alphonso WI4 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 80'
Decsent Route WI4 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 50'
Bilbo's Tunnel WI3+ Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Leaving the Shire WI4 Trad, Ice, Alpine, 100'
Sick Pup WI5- Trad, Ice, Alpine, 1 pitch, 100'
Mad Dog (Top roped) WI4-5 M3 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 2 pitches, 200'
The Big One WI5 M2 Trad, Mixed, Ice, Alpine, 3 pitches, 300'
Featured Route For Garfield Crag
The Big One WI5 M2 NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Garfield Crag
two starts right or left ramp of mixed climbing to belay under narrow curtain pillar. Climb pillar (WI4+) move right to gear placement, move left up runnel similar to Repentance second pitch and belay at notch (4+). Climb ramp left to ledge and escape off climb or do the crux wall of thin hard technical moves to the highest exit to this climb. ...[more] Browse More Classics in NH
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