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Garfield Crag

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Garfield Crag 


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Administrators: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Kristine Hoffman
Submitted By: bradley white on Aug 12, 2009
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Scanned photo of the view.

Description 

Several ice flows from WI3+ to WI5 multi-pitch climbs exist. Condition of ice flows dependent on weather. Sometimes very thin to nothing at all can exist on some of the longer flows. Be prepared for bitter coldness or worst rain sometimes.


Getting There 

Cross country skis and snow shoes are needed. Go eight miles of cross country skiing until at Thirteen Falls Campground. Turn left and and follow Franconia Brook trail towards Mt. Lafayette. When trail crosses Franconia Brook (DON'T), keep heading straight on the old logging road through short pines. When logging road terminates to being mostly forest ahead there is a decent camp site opening near Franconia Brook.
Cliff is about 1 mile heading up on logging road west to start from camp. When slope gets steep and road ends go up north northwest. If slope doesn't get too steep after much snow shoeing you've missed the ledge and its likely west from where you are lost. I have never missed it but its also not easy to find. Much snow shoeing with no sight of cliff ahead. Deep snow drifts before cliff create trouble navigating footsteps and seeing. This is the right place and still no cliff will be in sight. Don't see until you can climb it usually.
This is longest and only way I have done by taking Lincoln woods old wilderness trail to Franconia Brook Trail turning right onto it to Thirteen Falls Campground.
Shortest distance to car parked 6-7 miles from RT 302. These are terrible miles over mountains. Shortest distance is by Garfield Trail to the A.T. follow it east to trail leading down to 13 Falls. Don't go to Falls, instead traverse across slope until crag comes into view. Another way is Gale Head Trail to Gale Head Hut and walk south down from hut to 13 Falls. Day trips from 13 Falls Campground would be another good way to do multiple day camping but much time would be taken up getting to cliff.
This is a protected wilderness coded area in NH. That means leave no trace, use no ribbon trail markers on trees, no permanent anchors, including pitons and fixed webbing on a tree.


Climbing Season


7 Total Routes


['4 Stars',3],['3 Stars',1],['2 Stars',3],['1 Star',0],['Bomb',0]
['<=5.6',0],['5.7',0],['5.8',0],['5.9',0],['5.10',0],['5.11',0],['5.12',0],['5.13',0],['>=5.14',0],['',0],['<=V1',0],['V2-3',0],['V4-5',0],['V6-7',0],['V8-9',0],['V10-11',0],['V12-13',0],['>=V14',0]


Featured Route For Garfield Crag
Scanned photo of Jim Shimberg going up the 2nd pitch.

The Big One WI5 M2  NH : *NH Ice and Alpine Climbing : Garfield Crag
two starts right or left ramp of mixed climbing to belay under narrow curtain pillar. Climb pillar (WI4+) move right to gear placement, move left up runnel similar to Repentance second pitch and belay at notch (4+). Climb ramp left to ledge and escape off climb or do the crux wall of thin hard technical moves to the highest exit to this climb. ...[more]   Browse More Classics in NH

Photos of Garfield Crag Slideshow Add Photo
Left line is Bilbo's Tunnel, middle is Leaving the Shire and right is Sick Pup. None of them completely seen and nor is their lengths.
BETA PHOTO: Left line is Bilbo's Tunnel, middle is Leaving the...
Comments on Garfield Crag Add Comment
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By Adam Wilcox
From: Candia, NH
Aug 13, 2009

You certainly get around.

Thanks for sharing, Brad. I might never go to a lot of these places but I enjoy reading about them.

By bradley white
From: Plymouth
Aug 14, 2009

You are welcome Adam.
I used mole skinned cross country skis with Tirol adjustable bindings that fit ice climbing boots on the Wilderness trail to Franconia Brook trail and then would camp close to the brook west uphill from 13 falls campground. I modified a weight lifter's belt with loop holes to drag two kid sleds behind me. These sleds were loaded with food, camping supplies and climbing gear. I had 10 days off between Christmas and New years day. I usually stayed six days out there. One day to approach and set up camp. One day to snowshoe up to the crag's base. Three or four days climbing and one day to break camp and ski back to the car. I went out there four years. The only person that ever joined me was Jim Shimberg. The rest of my climbing associates I believe, thought I was nuts.
I had some mishaps over the years, sleds careening off the trail snapping the drag lines, Spent one night with Jim at 30 below zero, had my camp destroyed in 1984 year by high wind spouts and rain. I had to build a fire inside what was left of my shelter to survive the night. Scratched my corneas by fire ash and after seeing the doctor had to wear patches on both eyes for a week. I loved it out there away from civilization except for a radio and sometimes Jim.

By Mike Thompson
From: Manchester NH
Aug 15, 2009

you are one burly dude bradley :)

By Ryan Barber
From: Rumney, NH
Dec 27, 2011

LOL. How many miles on the approach??

By john strand
From: southern colo
Dec 27, 2011

if you are areal maniac-- come in over the top. So special