Garden of the Gods Climbing
Elevation: | 6,378 ft | 1,944 m |
GPS: |
38.8788, -104.8699 Google Map · Climbing Area Map |
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Page Views: | 762,295 total · 2,750/month | |
Shared By: | Tim Stich on Mar 15, 2002 · Updates | |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Previously per B. Tennis: all seasonal rock climbing closures in Garden of the Gods have been lifted for the season.
In 2023, they were the same as for 2022 and 2021.
Kindergarten/Gray Rock
North Gateway
Old info:
Previously: per Bret Tennis, as of 10/19/22: The Garden of the Gods has lifted all the seasonal rock climbing closures. Prior in 2020: seasonal raptor closures for 2020 were now lifted.
Seasonal climbing closure as of 9 April 2020:
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Continued from last year closures on Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock:
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open except for the seasonal closure of the Northeast face.
Closures as of June 5, 2019:
The Northern end of North Gateway Rock is closed for raptor nesting.
The Northeast face of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) also know as Big Sky is closed to rock climbing due to nesting raptors.
Continued climbing closures from 2018:
The northern tip (Anaconda) of North Gateway Rock is closed to rock climbing.
Sleeping Giant (Keyhole Rock) is closed to rock climbing.
The box canyon between Sleeping Giant and Gray Rock is closed to all activity.
The West side of Gray Rock (aka Kindergarten Rock) is closed to rock climbing except for the last 15 feet to the south. Family Values is still open, but anything North is closed to rock climbing. The South face is still open.
Description
Note: as of 2018, gates have been added to the entrances of the park. They are closed at 9pm during the offseason (November 1st to May 1st) and closed at 10pm during peak season (May 2nd- October 30th) .The park opens at 5am year round.
Getting There
From the north, from I-25, take the Garden of the Gods Rd west to 30th St. Go S on 30th St. to the visitor's center. Climbing permits are required and can be obtained online.
New for 2021! All colored and white chalk and chalk substitutes are NOT allowed!
The Park staff want to remind the climbing community that no chalk or chalk substitutes of any kind may be used when climbing in the Garden. This is a new rule as of March 2021. Previously ecoballs and colored chalk could be used, but this is no longer the case.
Per Doug Lintz: effective 3/15/21, all chalk, including chalk substitutes are banned from use at Garden of the Gods. In the past, white chalk was not permitted (even though many climbers continue to use it), but now all substitutes are included in the ban.
Rock Considerations
Rule change for climbers in Garden of the Gods Park
Effective March 15, 2021, climbing chalk or a chalk substitute of any kind or color cannot be used when climbing in Garden of the Gods Park. Climbing chalk was previously banned, however, this rule change now includes the restriction of all chalk substitutes in order to help preserve the natural beauty of the rock formations. The change has become necessary due to an increase in climbing activity and chalk use in the park.
The Parks, Recreation and Cultural Services Department worked closely with local climbers and the Pikes' Peak Climbers Alliance to reach this decision.
Importance of conservation
Taking into account the number of rock climbers that scale Garden of the Gods each year, even the smallest of traces left behind from individual climbers, such as chalk marks or dust, can create monumental impacts. By eliminating the use of chalk and chalk substitutes, rock climbers at the park will play a role in keeping the Garden’s extraordinary rock structures sustainable and stunning for years to come.
Other regular conservation efforts in Garden of the Gods include regular park maintenance, like removing trash and litter; trail maintenance efforts that help ensure existing trails are safer and more sustainable; reclamation using native seed and mulch to restore disturbed land; trail corridor cleaning; and noxious weed inventory and removal. These efforts often take place in partnership with groups like the Rocky Mountain Field Institute and Mile High Youth Corps.
Working with recreation groups creates the best outcomes
The City is grateful for groups like the Pikes Peak Climbers Alliance for working with us to make changes that benefit and balance both recreation and the environment.
Statement of support from the Pikes Peak Climber’s Alliance
“The Pikes Peak Climber’s Alliance has been happy to work with the Parks, Recreation and Cultural Services Department to help preserve and protect our beloved cliffs and natural resources in Garden of the Gods Park. We support a ban on chalk use on climbing routes to make sure that its iconic cliffs are used by climbers with a sustainable Leave No Trace ethic. As local climbers, most of us learned how to climb on the Garden’s red rock formations and we love the place. A no-chalk ethic goes a long way to preserving the Garden of the Gods and our climbing freedoms.”
....
There are regulations specific to climbing at this city-owned park, see the city's website where citywide free, mandatory climbing permits can be obtained. The Visitor's Center no longer physically provides these permits, since they're online. The Visitor Center is a private organization, and nobody on staff there really knows much about the climbing or the rules except what the city tells them. The Visitor Center phone number is 719.634.6666.
The rock here is a very porous, fragile sandstone; however, the exact qualities of the rock vary from formation to formation. Kindergarten Rock (lighter color) has probably some of the strongest of the weak sandstone here. Beware after any significant rain storms that it can take up to days to dry out. Rock edges here are known to fail without warning. Also, some of the hardware is old, and fixed hardware has been known to fail due to metal stress over time. Make sure to always backup your anchors and key pieces of protection.
Regulations, Online Permit, Map, & Closures
9327 complied in 2019 and 8,222 complied in 2017. Bouldering is also regulated here: rock scrambling, defined as climbing on a rock formation more than ten feet above its base without proper equipment (again, defined as UIAA standard rope), is prohibited. Also, bouldering is not permitted on Sentinel Rock, Red & White Twin Spires, Signature Rock, & the South face of North Gateway Rock. Certain formations are closed to climbing including, sadly, climbing atop the Kissing Camels and Balanced Rock.
Also, those accessing the climbs need to have gear and permit and be hiking to the base of the chosen route. When a family member or child or non-climbing member of a permitted group is visible to the public, this creates a conflict. The rangers do not enjoy disrupting a climbing party because we cannot identify climbing gear and believe we are seeing an illegal scrambler. Please do not invite all your friends if they are not actively climbing.
As of 2018, climbing on part of the West side of Kindergarten Rock (aka Grey Rock) is NOT permitted due to wildlife issues for the brown bats, nesting raptors, great horned owls, red tailed hawks, and Cooper's hawks. Also, all climbing on Keyhole Rock (aka Sleeping Giant) is NOT permitted. Finally, walking/hiking is NOT permitted between Kindergarten Rock and Keyhole Rock (and Sleeping Giant).
Also, note the park is closed to visitors after 9pm. The 2019 park hours are: May 1 to October 31: 5am - 10pm / November 1 to April 30: 5am - 9pm.
2019 Trail map.
Page 1.
Page 2.
Website
There is a new website that is being created for information on this park. It even has topos of routes on some of the formations.
Dogs must be in direct physical control by owners
Classic Climbing Routes at Garden of the Gods
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