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This is the obvious upper offwidth crack on the West side of the N. face of Toms Thumb. The first pitch climbs a nice hand crack with good pro 5.7 that progessively gets easier up some face and crack to an alcolve roof directly below the upper offwidth section a good belay can be found here. Next P2 Traverse left onto the face "very exciting" and continue up to the wicked exposed and scary offwidth "grand fun" maybe pro with a 3.5 and a 4 camalot although we found ourselves moving up a 4 with some moderate runout.
N. face of Toms Thumb Obvious upper offwidth.
medium to large cams up to 4 camalot.
BETA PHOTO: Garbanzo Bean (5.7).
BETA PHOTO: The step across for some is harder than others
Starting up Garbanzo Bean, photo by Peter.
|Comments on Garbonzo Bean
Feb 12, 2008
Great climb... very nice handcrack for the first crack.. then long slings for the left traverse at the bird shit ledge.. ( was wet from recent rain ).. then up the off width... 5.9 IMHO... take some wide stuff for the upper or be comfortable with walking a BD 4 for a ways. Loose blocks on the upper part of the first crack just before the traverse.
|By Scott Z|
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Feb 8, 2009
lower crack was nice. For a single pitch run, bring long slings or deal with ropedrag or the potential whipper at the traverse - good exposure, poor pro below traverse, but can get some pro in at/above to the right (hence long slings). I'm not big on OW climbing anyway and found ropedrag to be an added drag. plus would've been nice to bring a #5.
|By roman d|
From: Pasadena, CA
Jan 10, 2010
Solid physical climb. Physical crux right off the deck, mental crux is the smell on the traverse. Fun climb to lead on hexes.
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 19, 2012
Did this one again after a few years on Hanna's bidding. Still a physical climb with a hard start and the mental crux of the traverse is very real. If you don't like runout bring wide gear for the top. I didn't and was about 30 ft above my last piece before feeling secure.
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI HVS 5a
Avoid this, P1 goes to fist size quick on polished feet, smells like shit the whole way. I took one look at the shit stain on the traverse and opted for straight up, which sucks too, on chossy rock.