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Garbonzo Bean 

YDS: 5.7 French: 5a Ewbanks: 15 UIAA: V+ ZA: 13 British: MVS 4b

Type:  Trad, 2 pitches, 160', Grade II
Consensus:  YDS: 5.9 French: 5c Ewbanks: 17 UIAA: VI ZA: 17 British: HVS 5a [details]
FA: Larry Treiber, Chuck Graf, Bob Watts, Phil Martineau, 1973
Season: winter
Page Views: 2,553
Submitted By: Michael John Gray on Aug 30, 2006

You & This Route  |  Other Opinions (12)
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BETA PHOTO: The step across for some is harder than others

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This is the obvious upper offwidth crack on the West side of the N. face of Toms Thumb. The first pitch climbs a nice hand crack with good pro 5.7 that progessively gets easier up some face and crack to an alcolve roof directly below the upper offwidth section a good belay can be found here. Next P2 Traverse left onto the face "very exciting" and continue up to the wicked exposed and scary offwidth "grand fun" maybe pro with a 3.5 and a 4 camalot although we found ourselves moving up a 4 with some moderate runout.


N. face of Toms Thumb Obvious upper offwidth.


medium to large cams up to 4 camalot.

Photos of Garbonzo Bean Slideshow Add Photo
Rock Climbing Photo: Zoom in on Garbonzo Bean. Also note the sickness o...
Zoom in on Garbonzo Bean. Also note the sickness o...
Rock Climbing Photo: Garbanzo Bean (5.7).
BETA PHOTO: Garbanzo Bean (5.7).
Rock Climbing Photo: Starting up Garbanzo Bean, photo by Peter.
Starting up Garbanzo Bean, photo by Peter.

Comments on Garbonzo Bean Add Comment
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By lou
Feb 12, 2008

Great climb... very nice handcrack for the first crack.. then long slings for the left traverse at the bird shit ledge.. ( was wet from recent rain ).. then up the off width... 5.9 IMHO... take some wide stuff for the upper or be comfortable with walking a BD 4 for a ways. Loose blocks on the upper part of the first crack just before the traverse.
By Scott Z
From: Highlands Ranch, CO
Feb 8, 2009

lower crack was nice. For a single pitch run, bring long slings or deal with ropedrag or the potential whipper at the traverse - good exposure, poor pro below traverse, but can get some pro in at/above to the right (hence long slings). I'm not big on OW climbing anyway and found ropedrag to be an added drag. plus would've been nice to bring a #5.
By roman d
From: Pasadena, CA
Jan 10, 2010

Solid physical climb. Physical crux right off the deck, mental crux is the smell on the traverse. Fun climb to lead on hexes.
By arjunmh
From: Phoenix, AZ
Feb 19, 2012

Did this one again after a few years on Hanna's bidding. Still a physical climb with a hard start and the mental crux of the traverse is very real. If you don't like runout bring wide gear for the top. I didn't and was about 30 ft above my last piece before feeling secure.
By Tradoholic
Sep 25, 2012
rating: 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a

Avoid this, P1 goes to fist size quick on polished feet, smells like shit the whole way. I took one look at the shit stain on the traverse and opted for straight up, which sucks too, on chossy rock.

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