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Pinnacle Peak
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Garber's Chimney T 
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Garber's Chimney 

YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a

   
Type:  Trad, 1 pitch, 50'
Consensus:  YDS: 5.3 French: 3+ Ewbanks: 10 UIAA: III ZA: 9 British: VD 3a [details]
FA: 1965
Season: Any
Page Views: 218
Submitted By: Ted Smith on Feb 6, 2013

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BETA PHOTO: Best Approach and Location

Description 

Easy start with heady finish! Stem, Off-width, and Chimney your way to the top! Guaranteed to get your attention with smooth walls that make you think you might just slip out at any moment--and gear placement is a bit tricky, in close quarters. Otherwise, a piece of cake. ;-)

Location 

On the West side of the main pinnacle towers about 30 ft. down from the top of Chutes and ladders. A 60 meter rope will get you to the bottom from the top, but the base of the climb can only be reached with 5th class scrambling--or another pitch to start. Can be reached by circling around the pinnacles from the North after going past the Wedge trail.

Protection 

.4 to 3 inches. Cams work well in the cracks that surround the chimney. Nuts are a bit more tricky to place. Single anchor bolt (massive) that can be backed up.


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By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Feb 6, 2013

I don't know how to rate this lead, but suffice it to say that I led a 5.8 chimney/off-width at Iso Canyon this past Fall, and Garber's is SIGNIFICANTLY harder! Chalk it up to smooth polished granite with little purchase to be found. What an excellent place to practice technique tho!!! I'm going to repeat it until it is easy!
By Ted Smith
From: Scottsdale, AZ
Nov 20, 2013

I went back and led it again. The second time, it was much easier--probably only 5.7 or so. :-) The pro is just a little tricky at the crux, or you can just run it out. ;-)